Netsuke literally means "root for fastening" (ne tsuke). Netsuke are toggles worn by Japanese men of the upper and middle classes. These "roots for fastening" developed from a practical object to a coveted collector's item.

The Origins

The origin of netsuke is of a rather practical manner. Japanese kimonos had no pockets. The kimono was tied together with a sash or belt, called obi. So everything that you would carry in a pocket was put into a pouch or a box and attached to the sash with strings. The netsuke with two openings for the string to pass, acted as a toggle to prevent the sagemono (everything hanging from the sash) from slipping down from the obi. The channel or hole carved into the netsuke for the passage of the cord is called the himotoshi. If a netsuke has a natural opening for the cord to pass, one speaks of a natural himotoshi.

Far beyond their practical use, they were considered as a status symbol by their owners. Soon netsuke developed from a simple practical object to an impressive piece of art of high standard. Netsuke were in use from at least the early 17th century to the second half of the 19th century. With the Meiji restoration, the Japanese adopted Western clothing, which made netsuke disappear as an item for daily use by Japanese men.

The Materials

Netsuke come in a wide variety of different materials. The dominant materials are ivory and wood. Wood is not restricted to a specific tree but comes in a great number of wooden materials - many unknown outside of Japan. Other than ivory and wood, many other materials were used like bone, horn, shell, amber, soapstone or ceramic.

Collectors of netsuke should be familiar with possible import/export and buying restrictions due to legislation for the protection of endangered species. They are different from country to country. Buying and selling antique items with material like ivory within the member states of the European Union is legal and does not require any permits. Exports outside the EU member states require a special permission.

The Value of a Netsuke

At the end of the nineteenth century everything Japanese became en vogue in Europe. Netsuke were sold rather cheaply until the second half of the twentieth century when a rising number of collectors discovered the charm of netsuke. The Japanese did not even consider netsuke as something worth collecting. Therefore most of the best netsuke are in Western collections outside Japan.

Prices can range from US$100 to US$100,000. Top prices are connected to a few well known artist designers. But in general the existence of a signature does not have much influence on the value of a netsuke piece. Nor does the material. What matters most, is the quality of carving, originality and a charming subject.

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