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09BlowoutUpgrade9099/
Limited Quantity Available Two Strobe Starter Portrait Studio Lighting Package | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Here's what you get: 1) Two Britek PS-200 120WS Professional Strobes (Show me) 2) Two Pro Softboxes UPGRADE (Show Me) 3) Two 6 1/2 Foot Light Stands (Show me) 4) Two Unique Umbrella-Capable Reflectors (Show Me) 5) Two Sync Cords 6) Two Power Cords 7) All Necessary Bulbs (flash tubes, modeling light bulbs, etc.) With this package you'll have everything you need to start making great pictures! See just below. Now with two New BONUSES! 8) One Carrying Case for Strobes & Accessories (Show Me) 9) One Carrying Case for Light Stands & Umbrellas (Show Me) Plus, Two more Free Bonuses! 10) One FREE Cellular Phone Antenna Booster! $20 Value! (Show Me) 11) 500 FREE Web Site Templates! $500 Value! (Show Me) |
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This is a Great starter Portrait Studio setup, for an amazing price! You'll have what you'll need to start getting fabulous portraits (also great for product photography)! With 2 powerful 120WS Master strobes, you'll have two strobes to appropriately light your victims (er, your "subjects, that is:) from two opposing locations, which will allow you to get professional-level results with the necessary interplay of light and shadow, resulting in the depth and texture characteristic of pro portraits. Also, professional strobes (like these) come with all the bells and whistles already built-in - like what, you may ask? Like Modeling Lights, (see here and here), variable power with the flip of a switch, removable and interchangeable umbrella-capable reflectors, and the capability of using an almost infinite variety of light modifiers (such as umbrellas, softboxes, SoftCases, snoots, honeycombs, etc.). In addition, you'll have two
Light Stands for your strobes, AND two Softboxes to creatively soften the light and effectively help
to hide the lines, sags, and wrinkles often found on our older
victims (it makes them look younger, more vibrant, and attractive
- and often results in the photographer being called names, like
"Artist" and "Genius" :). Umbrellas are also
great for photographing reflective surfaces; they cut down on
or eliminate the "hot spots" on glass, chrome, oil
paintings, and on virtually all similar reflective surfaces).
And in addition, you'll also receive an umbrella-capable reflector
with each strobe, and all the sync cords, power cords, and bulbs.
Over all, this is a fabulous professionsal-level starter
package which will give you what you need to start you off in
portraiture or product photography the right way, and
is infinitely upgradable! Unlike other kits, this starts you
at the pro level, and allows you to expand whenever you like
- without being stuck with amateur equipment that you wasted
your money on. And you get all this for less than one-HALF
of what you'd pay for just one single strobe from a competing
manufacturer (and less than a dinner or two would cost you at
a nice restaurant - and this professional lighting equipment
is absolutely guaranteed to last longer than any dinner you'll
ever have ;-). |
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| Important: I just HATE IT when I buy a "kit" or "package," and then when I receive it, I discover that I can't use it because there's something else I need (usually at a substantial additional cost, too) to make it work (i.e., the "batteries not included" syndrome)! So I'd never do that to my (cherished) customers! With this fabulous package, absolutely everything is included (well, except a camera, film, and photographer, that is)! When this package arrives, all you'll have to do to start making great photographs, is open it up, unwrap your new goodies, put the strobes on the light stands, plug 'em in, point them at your favorite victims, and, baby, just like Elvis, go ahead and rock and roll (fire away)! NO additional equipment or parts are needed to start using your new studio lighting package! |
| These professional Strobes will work with all film cameras and many digital, cameras, but NOT for video cameras. Will it work with your camera(s)? It most likely will (but for digital cameras see HERE before ordering and check your manual to be sure). I get tons of e-mails asking me if this equipment will work with a certain brand of camera; so here are just a few of the MANY different camera brands that this equipment has been tested with and can use this equipment successfully: Canon, Nikon, Sony, Kodak, Olympus, and virtually ALL other major and minor brands! Thank you for visiting this auction, and may the photographic Gods smile upon you (a little help from the Lottery Gods wouldn't hurt either, huh?). |
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Shop with
confidence! This GOLD PowerSeller proudly provides a plethora of perfect photographic products - PLUS - pure, powerful, and peerless customer service! |
 --> Check out all my other wonderful eBay auctions! |
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The New Britek PS-200 Professional Studio Flash
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Why do photographers want powerful flash equipment (strobes)? Because (both indoors and outdoors) with strobes, WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! Sound familiar? Starting to get the picture, now? (sorry, I just couldn't resist ;-) BTW, did you realize that both the photo above, and the photo on the left, were both taken against the same background? Yup. The backdrop was a pure white canvas. Why does the picture on the left look like it has a brown background? BECAUSE I COULD CONTROL THE LIGHT. Even with a cheapie old (really old) digital Fuji (no speed control, no slr, no aperture choice, etc.). How? See the "technique section below). Hmmm... Light! |
| Technique: How was I able to make the background that's in the top picture pure white, and the very same background, in the picture above, appear brown? It's easy - when you know how (it's sorta like this: What kind of question is a hard question? Answer: One you don't know the answer to. And what kind of question is an easy question? Answer: That's the one you do know the answer to). Here's how it's done: In the top picture, I lit the background with a backlight strobe (it's own strobe), so it received enough light to expose properly, and consequently it came out pure white. In the picture above, I did not light the background; I just used the tiny little built-in flash on the digital Fuji, which was enough to (barely) light the strobe I was photographing, but too weak to reach or brighten up the backdrop to white; therefore, the background underexposed and looked brownish, even though it was really a pure white canvas! Carried to an extreme, I could even make a white background look black, if I wanted to. How? By lighting the subject so brightly that the (unlit) background would underexpose (i.e., not receive enough light) so badly it would come out black. It's all in the LIGHT folks; it's all in the light! Remember, a photographer is a LIGHT writer. | |
At
the great price you'll get for this fabulous package, you could
buy 2 of these kits for LESS than HALF what you might pay for
just a single competing strobe! BTW, when I tested this
fabulous new strobe, I discovered that it clocked in at an incredible
F16 at 10 feet! Whatta powerful little sucker it is! Plus, you
can set it for full OR half power.
Technique: BTW, I purposely made the photograph above to
show you an example of a photographic situation (perspective
distortion) that often plagues our amateur images. I used this
technique to distort the relative size of the reflector, compared
to the strobe's body. Look at the picture at the top of this
auction description (or the small one to the left); then look
at the image above. The reflector in the image above appears
larger than it really is, in relation to the body of the strobe
(compare the relative sizes of the strobe and the White reflector).
Why does this happen? It's called "perspective distortion"
and I'll spare you the physics of the explanation, but whenever
one part of an object is closer to the camera's lens than the
other part of an object, the perspective is distorted (it's due
to the rendering of a 3 dimensional object into a 2 dimensional
image). For fun, try this: come in really close to someone's
face with your camera, and with the person's nose closest to
your lens, take a picture. When the print comes back, you'll
see the nose looks huge (compared to the rest of the face). Of
course, you can do the same with almost any object you photograph.
The lesson? Beware of holding the camera too close to your subject
(unless you want perspective distortion for some reason, like
this example, or for fun). This most often happens when we're
using wide angle lenses (since we can fit more into the frame,
we sometimes bring the camera too close to our subjects), but
it happens with all lenses. For portraiture, use somewhere between
an 85 to 135mm lens (the short telephoto range makes most faces
look better). The opposite of the perspective distortion effect
is a compression of space caused with long telephoto lenses.
If a subject really does have a large nose, shoot your victim
with a longer telephoto lens; it will compress space, and make
the nose look smaller. Just a couple more tricks up the professional
photographer's sleeve. Read on, and learn more.... Back
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| Technique: BTW, I purposely made the photograph above to
show you an example of a photographic situation (perspective
distortion) that often plagues our amateur images. I used this
technique to distort the relative size of the reflector, compared
to the strobe's body. Look at the picture at the top of this
auction description (or the small one to the left); then look
at the image above. The reflector in the image above appears
larger than it really is, in relation to the body of the strobe
(compare the relative sizes of the strobe and the White reflector).
Why does this happen? It's called "perspective distortion"
and I'll spare you the physics of the explanation, but whenever
one part of an object is closer to the camera's lens than the
other part of an object, the perspective is distorted (it's due
to the rendering of a 3 dimensional object into a 2 dimensional
image). For fun, try this: come in really close to someone's
face with your camera, and with the person's nose closest to
your lens, take a picture. When the print comes back, you'll
see the nose looks huge (compared to the rest of the face). Of
course, you can do the same with almost any object you photograph.
The lesson? Beware of holding the camera too close to your subject
(unless you want perspective distortion for some reason, like
this example, or for fun). This most often happens when we're
using wide angle lenses (since we can fit more into the frame,
we sometimes bring the camera too close to our subjects), but
it happens with all lenses. For portraiture, use somewhere between
an 85 to 135mm lens (the short telephoto range makes most faces
look better). The opposite of the perspective distortion effect
is a compression of space caused with long telephoto lenses.
If a subject really does have a large nose, shoot your victim
with a longer telephoto lens; it will compress space, and make
the nose look smaller. Just a couple more tricks up the professional
photographer's sleeve. Read on, and learn more.... Back
to top of page |
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The PS-200 is a "Monolight," which means that all the required components are included in the one package (as opposed to other strobes which may have the flash head in one segment, and then need an additional and separate power supply in order to get it to work; at an additional cost, too). With these units, everything is included; just plug them in, and fire away! The "ready" light goes on to let us know when the strobe is charged and ready to fire; the "test" button lets us fire the strobe to test its proper functioning or to take a meter reading; the "sync" terminal lets us attach a sync (or PC) cord to the sync terminal on our cameras to control the firing of the strobe with the shutter button on our cameras; and the "optical slave sensor" lets us fire the strobe automatically with the flash of any other strobe or flash unit (so we don't have to use a sync cord at all, if we don't want to). The Full/Half Power switch lets us choose the power output with the flip of a switch. The other controls are pretty much self-explanatory. |
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BTW, a "Modeling Light" (see the picture of the modeling light, below) is a separate, additional, light (in addition to the strobe's "Flash Tube") that's built into the strobe and throws continuous light over the same area as the strobe's flash tube will (see the picture below for a close-up). You turn on the modeling light (before your shot), so the photographer can see what the modeling will look like, as s/he adjusts the lights before he takes the shot and fires the strobe ("Modeling" is PhotoSpeak for the highlights (light areas) and shadows (dark areas) that fall upon the subject, giving it the depth and texture necessary for professional results). This great feature (modeling light) is usually only found on much more expensive lights. This unit can be activated by
the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the Slave
Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's
little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's
light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless
you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord"
(Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord"
is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera, and fires
the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button. |
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See the image above for a description of each of the controls on the unit. |
| This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these little babies sure make a lot of sense. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid three hundred or three thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see. |
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We can see the difference between
the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube
surrounding the modeling bulb) in this close-up shot of the PS-200's
business end (with the reflector removed, of course). The answer was really simple:
You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With
modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's
flash will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light
falls on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall
on the subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the
pros pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling
lights. That's why the professional photographer's pictures look
so much better than ours do: they have the right equipment for
the job! They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you. back up to rear view of PS-200 |
| PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come). | |
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Complete: Each of these PS-200s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since these strobes are A.C. units, they're ready to rock! No batteries or powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll. As with all quality strobes, these are capable of using many additional custom accessories, of course (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer, reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture. Softboxes (and SoftCases) and umbrellas are specifically designed for this purpose (and yes, these are able to use custom-fitted softboxes & softcases). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed,
with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT
seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely
perfect, current models! Just 'cause the price is great,
doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Questions?
Requests? just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at
PhotoSource3@pss3.com. |
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| BTW, technically speaking, all professional photographic
flash units, even though nearly all pros call them "strobes,"
are not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable
of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second,
and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic
strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off
25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost
always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick
with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;->
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| Important: I have many auctions that are not listed at the top of the eBay auctions page, and lots of additional equipment available for immediate purchase (no waiting for an auction to end, and no chance of being outbid) in my eBay store! The only way to be sure you haven't missed something that might be perfect for your needs is to check ALL my eBay auctions and store items by clicking HERE! <- Clicking here will open up a new page in your browser with a list of my auctions and eBay store items; this auction page will remain open behind the new page, so you won't lose your place. |
 Technique: Why would we want to dim a light to
1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to
be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of
ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect
we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination
to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot
(that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face,
often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face
highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium
shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling,"
and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example,
a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (also 1:3,
1:4, or even 1:5) ratio - full illumination on one side of the
face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's
face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives
the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative
aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination can give us
an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio
of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us
depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting
ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two
strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving
one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice
as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing
the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like
walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios
(especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far
away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient
solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great PS-200)! Now,
instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do
is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at
all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations
from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way
to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is
to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the
shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional"
reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white
poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for
under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great
pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and
use your head! Back up to the PS-200 description |
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| AC Input | 110-120 Volt |
| AC Fuse | 5 Amp |
| Modeling Lamp | 100W Halogen (rated 1,000 hours) |
| Flash Tube | BC-100Y (rated 10,000 flashes) 120WS (huh?) |
| Guide No. (ISO 100) | GN: 45 Meters / 120 Feet (huh?) |
| Trigger | Test button / Slave / PC Cord |
| Slave Effective Distance | 15 Meters / 50 Feet |
| Sync Socket | 5 ø Standard Earphone Type, 6V DC |
| Diameter of Light Head | 70 ø mm |
| Recycling Time | 1-3 Seconds |
| Dimensions & Weight | 240 x 80 x 140mm 0.65Kg |
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| Important: I have many auctions that are not listed at the top of the eBay auctions page, and lots of additional equipment available for immediate purchase (no waiting for an auction to end, and no chance of being outbid) in my eBay store! The only way to be sure you haven't missed something that might be perfect for your needs is to check ALL my eBay auctions and store items by clicking HERE! <- Clicking here will open up a new page in your browser with a list of my auctions and eBay store items; this auction page will remain open behind the new page, so you won't lose your place. |
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You're getting Two Britek PS-200 Professional Strobes with this kit
Here's some information about the items comprising
your new starter studio: Brand New 2.8 to 6.5 Foot
Light stands
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Here's a good deal on
an excellent quality light stand. This Brand New Britek light
stand actually extends to a height of 7 Feet,
and folds down (fully assembled) to only 2.8 feet for easy packing
and transport (but since the manufacturer calls it a 6 1/2 foot
light stand, we'll just go with that stat). All the sections of these stands
are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which
are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only
"cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the
quality! Bid now, while they're still in stock. |
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Here's some
information about the items comprising
your new studio Kit: Brand
New Strobe and Accessories Carrying Case
But don't worry, you're sure to love the new one! Everybody does. ;-)
You're getting One brand new strobe & accessories carrying case with this package
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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new starter studio: Brand New Light stand (and Umbrella) Carrying Case
| But what about my Umbrellas and my Light Stands, you might ask? Hey, folks, please remember who you're dealing with here! Photographer's SupplyStation ("PhotoSource3" on eBay) provides everything you might need! Fear, not sweet photographer! I've got you covered! |
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| This fabulous,
Brand New Light Stand Carrying Case will hold
your light stands (plus several umbrellas as well), AND will still have
room for more! Don't tell anyone, but I manage to stuff 4-5 light
stands and 3-4 umbrellas in this same carrying case! So you'll
have plenty of room to expand for the future. Carrying Case Dimensions: 34" x 6" x 5" |
You're getting One brand new light stand & umbrella carrying case with this package
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AND A Cell Phone Antenna Booster!
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FIVE HUNDRED Professional Web Site Templates! Now your web site can look like a Million Dollars with these fabulous templates! Over 500 to choose from, including great, fast-loading auction templates! And even if you valued these professional templates at only $10 each, that equals 5 Large ($5,000.00)! And there's NO waiting because this is a download! Just as soon as you pay for your purchase, you'll be sent a link where you can download these templates right away. With the wonderful lights in this kit, super-low BLOWOUT price, plus great free bonuses like this and the Cell Phone Booster below, why in the world anyone want to buy their photographic lighting equipment anywhere else? Huh? Well, huh? ;-) |
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Ever have your cellular phone fail to find a signal when you really needed it? Those of us who have cell phones, have them because we never know when we'll find ourselves in a situation where it will save our butts (or those of our spouses, kids, or friends) from some emergency. Other times, when we're on our cell phone with an important call, we discover that we've just "dropped" the call during the most important part of our conversations. It's happened to all of us, and I really hated it when it happened to me! We've all seen the ads on TV and in the magazines and newspapers for these Cell Phone Antenna Boosters, and hundreds of thousands have been sold for $19.95 each! And, yes, they DO help (I've tried them on my own cell phones). They're easy to install (just peel and stick them on the phone behind the battery). To be perfectly honest, though (and I always am:), they're nowhere as "Wonderful" as the TV ads make them out to be (what is?:), but they really do help pull in the cell signals when you're in a "fringe" area or inside buildings. I certainly don't think they're worth $20, but in an emergency, these little antenna boosters could make the difference for you. And one thing's for sure: you can't beat the price! It's FREE! I just happened to come upon a fabulous deal for these cellular phone antenna boosters, and I feel that it's something we should all have - after all, when an emergency happens to us, we'll NEED to have a connection that will work (but no guarantees:)! I came across a great deal on these handy units, and I feel that if you're kind enough to purchase this great pro lighting equipment from me, the least I could do would be to give you one of these as a FREE gift! So I'm including one of these Cellular Antenna Boosters with EVERY order. For FREE! Just my way of saying: "Thank you for your patronage!" So "Who da man?" Huh? Who da man? ;-) |
| Each and every order (placed from this eBay auction listing) will include one FREE Cellular Phone Antenna Booster and a link where you can go to download the 500 Free Web Site Templates. Please understand that you will receive one of each free bonus with your order (regardless of how many kits or items you may order from a dutch auction). Unlike most others, this is not a gimmick - there's no "catch," there are no additional costs to you, there are no additional "shipping" or "handling" charges tacked on - these are really and truly FREE bonuses! Wondering if my products are really as good as they sound? Just check my feedback for assurance, and see for yourself! | |
Oops! Some information on shipping and payment issues got lost when updating this listing; but you can find the shipping charges
up at the top of the eBay listing. And the manufacturer provides a full year guarantee. If you have any questions,
just e-mail me at PhotoSource3@pss3.Com, and I'll be glad to answer any questions or concerns you might have.
| Important: I have many auctions that are not listed at the top of the eBay auctions page, and lots of additional equipment available for immediate purchase (no waiting for an auction to end, and no chance of being outbid) in my eBay store! The only way to be sure you haven't missed something that might be perfect for your needs is to check ALL my eBay auctions and store items by clicking HERE! <- Clicking here will open up a new page in your browser with a list of my auctions and eBay store items; this auction page will remain open behind the new page, so you won't lose your place. |
Accessories
& Information
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Point of Information: BTW (btw means "by the way" for any "newbies" paying us a visit), a "Reflection" umbrella is one that reflects the strobe's light back onto the subject, and thereby softens and diffuses the light. This technique is often used in portraits, delicate items, and for photographing reflective surfaces, and performs many beneficial services for all us hard-working, and under-appreciated photographic artists. Keep it a secret from others, though, and let them think we get our beautiful images through some sort of secret and esoteric magic, passed down through the centuries, from master to disciple. It helps increase our value ;-) - and please don't send me any e-mail explaining that photography hasn't been around for centuries, I know that. Duh. Actually, photography (in one form or another) has been around for about 150 years. |
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FREE UPGRADE! Umbrellas have been removed and this kit upgraded to Two Fabulous SoftBoxes! White/Black Reflection
Umbrellas: 32" The SoftBox The SoftBox is perhaps the most beneficial lighting modifier ever invented. The soft, mellow, virtually shadowless light the SoftBox gives us caresses and beautifies your every subject - be it person or product! On people, the soft light of the softbox gently hides the lines and wrinkles on the faces of our portrait clients, making them look younger and more vital than they really are (that's why folks pay photographers, y'know :) it's our job to make folks look as good as they can possibly look. That's why the pros use light modifiers like SoftBoxes - and now so can you. And for objects and products, the magnificent softness of the light envelopes products, bringing out delicate, beautiful, details, and reduces any reflections or "hot spots" on shiny or reflective surfaces. Truly fabulous lighting for jewelry, clothing, artworks, and virtually any other item you can think of. Because of this magical mellowness, every photographer should have access to them, and no studio, no matter how small, is ever complete without SoftBoxes. You will be amazed at the results you'll get with softbox lighting. Without light-modifying equipment like these softboxes, the harsh direct lighting fails to make our subjects look good, and casts hard, deep shadows. I guarantee you, you'll never see a professional photographer's studio, or television studio, or movie studio that doesn't have lots of softboxes. Now you' can have your own well-equipped photo/video studio - and your images will show it! |
Shipping and handling Save up to $5.00 on shipping when you buy additional eligible items from photosource3. Item location: Reseda, California, United States Shipping to: United States, Canada
*The estimated delivery time is based on the seller's handling time, the shipping service selected, and when the seller receives cleared payment. Sellers are not responsible for shipping service transit times. Transit times may vary, particularly during peak periods.
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