Callot Soeurs was a fashion design house opened in 1895 at 24, rue Taitbout in Paris, France. It was operated by the four Callot sisters: Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Bertrand, Regina Callot Tennyson-Chantrell and Joséphine Callot Crimont. The eldest sister, Marie, was trained in dressmaking and they were all taught by their mother, a lacemaker. The sisters began working with antique laces and ribbons to enhance blouses and lingerie. Their success led to an expansion into other clothing and in 1914 they moved to larger premises on the Avenue Matignon. Marie Callot Gerber, the elder sister was in charge of design, having earlier worked for the Raudnitz and Co., prominent Parisian dressmakers. Couturier Madeleine Vionnet apprenticed at Callot upon her return to Paris. It was here that she refined her technique in couture. Callot Soeurs sold a line of clothing known for its exotic detail. They were among the first designers to use gold and silver lamé to make dresses. During the 1920s they were one of the leading fashion houses in Paris, catering to an exclusive clientele from across Europe and the United States.

I recently purchased a lovely bunch of designer trousseau items from the 1920's, one more spectacular than the other, all from Paris, all lavish with French lace. Only one piece bears the Callot Soeurs label, but all five show the same identifying quality and styling elements, obviously came from the same maker. You only need take one look and you'll see what I mean. (All five are pictured at the bottom of this auction) The spectacular chemise I am offering in this auction does not have a label so I am including a label pic as it surely came from the same place. I was told that the original owner purchased everything during a trip to Paris back in the day.

This teddy/chemise (the bottom is pants) is as pretty as they come. All the bells and whistles. Silk chiffon in a delicious seam foam color with scads of exquisite and romantic champagne colored embroidered French lace. Pleated bodice and skirt.

Lace is 4 inches wide and trims the top of the bodice, forms the waist and extends down either side. What's more the back is equally festooned, as shown in pic. And check out the monogram cartouche in the center. Exquisite Madeira-like embroidery: PAH.

Tiny pearl buttons down the back of bodice.

I don't see any machine stitching on the piece. The lace is meticulously hand applied.

And surprise of surpises, the garment is not small. Of course there's no size label but here are some flat measurements. (Double to get the full circumference): Measurements: Flat across top: about 18 1/2; waist: about 17 1/2"; hips: full; length from top of lace to bottom of teddy: about 31"; straps add another 8 1/2".

Incredible, wearable condition. The garment does not appear to have ever been worn. I looked and looked and found no damage, weakness or soil.

Here's a great quote from Proust: "'Is there a vast difference between a Callot dress and one from any other shop?' asked Proust’s fictional alter-ego, Marcel. 'Why, an enormous difference,' replied his girlfriend, Albertine. 'Only, alas! What you get for 300 francs in an ordinary shop will cost you two thousand there. But there can be no comparison; they look the same only to people who know nothing about it.'" And from Madeleine Vionnet, Callot's most illustrious protege: “Without the example of the Callot Soeurs, I would have continued to make Fords. It is because of them that I have been able to make Rolls Royces."

Obviously, this garment is a valuable piece of haute couture history. Belongs in a museum with all the other Callot Soeur masterpieces.

We are always happy to combine shipping. (i 49)

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