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The precise origins of cloth production in Africa is lost in time,
but archaeological findings indicate some of the earliest sites.
Drawings of looms can be seen in the tombs of ancient Egypt,
dating back to at least 2000 B.C.E. Archaeologists have found linen
remnants in ancient Egypt, as well as fifth-century cotton cloth
remnants in Meroe, in northern Sudan. In West Africa, woven fiber
pieces dating back to the ninth century C.E. have been found in
Nigeria, and woven cotton cloth dating to the eleventh century has been
recovered in Mali. Evidence of loom use in Mauritania dates
back to the eleventh century.
Traditions of Cloth Production and Design Bark cloth, or cloth made
from tree bark, predates the development of woven textiles in most
parts of Africa. Today it is rarely used for day-to-day
clothing, but some societies use it for ceremonial costumes. The Ganda
of Uganda, for example, make fabric from the inner bark of fig trees,
which is worn during ceremonial dances and other occasions
when ancestors are being honored. Early clothing in Africa was also
made from treated animal hides, furs, and feathers.
Many African societies weave cloth from locally grown cotton. In
North Africa and the Sahel, women also spin and weave camel and sheep
wool. Other sources of fiber include the raffia palm in
Central and West Africa, jute and flax in West Africa and Madagascar,
and silk in Nigeria, Madagascar, and East Africa. All these fibers can
be dyed using vegetable and mineral dyes.
The two main kind of textile looms in Africa are the double-heddle
loom, used for narrow strips of cloth, and the single-heddle loom, used
for wider pieces. The narrow strips are typically sewn
together, then cut into patterns for clothing. The double-heddle loom
is generally used only by male weavers, who use it to weave in colored
threads and create richly textured fabrics. In addition,
weavers in North Africa and in Ethiopia also use ground looms, while
looms similar to those used in Southeast Asia are found in Madagascar.
Although Africa's weavers produce a wide variety of
patterned, colored fabric, they also weave plain cloth. This cloth can
either be used "as is" for daily wear around the home, or it can be
decorated. Common fabric-decorating techniques include
appliqué designs, sewn on in contrasting fabrics; embroidery with
brightly colored threads; and dyeing.
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