Gothic Bastard Sword - SHARP, full tang (93-ics800)

 A Functional Battlefield Quality Weapon

 R Hand Forged

This is not a mass-produced blade stamped out of sheet metal, it's 100% guaranteed hand forged. The blade is shaped and delicately curved; created with time honoured classic sword making ingredients: hammer, anvil, fire and sweat - traditionally fired, shaped and polished by skilled artisans. This sword doesn’t just look good in the photo – it will actually look and feel good in your hand. The serious collector should aim for no less than hand-forged blades.  Factory-made blades are commonplace, but useless for combat. Even blades factory-produced from 5160 steel are often riddled with slag inclusions. In March 2009, a noted Australian sword expert dismantled and tested one of our standard eBay swords. He wrote: “I was very impressed with its flex- it almost bends to 90 degrees and snaps back without deforming.”

R Sharp

This sword has been professionally sharpened.

R Full Tang

Tang is a word of Old Norse origin, meaning a sharp point, tongue, or prong. The tang is an extension of the blade that you don't see because it is hidden underneath the handle.  Most swords, if they are of any quality, should already have a full tang and it doesn't need to be advertised. It's something to expect. Nevertheless, we do feel a need to differentiate this item, as 95% of swords on the net are either rat-tails or quarter tangs. Such movie/fantasy pseudo-swords are strictly for decoration only, as the much needed support in the handle is missing. They might look pretty on a wall, but they will slowly (or very quickly) come apart if used in simulated combat.

A quarter or half tang means that the blade is partially imbedded into the hilt and does not form a connection with the pommel. It is more difficult and expensive to create a full tang, as the handle and guard have to be manufactured around each individual sword. The most common modern tang fitting, is the rat-tail. It's aptly named, as this tang has something like the length and thickness of a rat’s tail. Rat-tails are long inner threads which run the length of the handle. They screw into a pommel cap and are spot welded to the end of the blade. If a pommel can be unscrewed, this does not always mean it’s on a rat-tail – but it usually is. Almost all swords made in the People’s Republic of China (the ones most frequently seen on the internet) have a cheap rat-tail. Such tangs create a weak-point in the sword, focusing all of the force onto a tiny little weld.

R With Scabbard

Supplied with a unique, custom made, hand crafted scabbard.

R Super-High Carbon Steel

We use a traditional bellows-driven charcoal forge to heat the steel, carefully purifying and carburizing each blade, hammering it into shape and then tempering it to perfection. The end result of these efforts is "Living Steel" - a super-high carbon steel blade (typically about one percent carbon) that is exceptionally flexible, very strong, and has the potential to hold an exceptionally sharp edge.

The blade’s steel is not inappropriately shiny with a mirror finish, but has the authentic bright-gray subdued sheen favoured by enthusiasts.

R Competitive Pricing

We don’t have the expense of a shop front, so consequently we are able to sell top grade items at very reasonable (wholesale level) prices.

If you are less than delighted with your purchase, return it to us within seven days, and we will furnish you with a full refund – no questions asked. If the sword arrives damaged, return it to us within seven days, and we will send you another. If you pay by PayPal, your sword is automatically insured against loss. Additional postal insurance is available for $15.00.

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USA & Canada - Almost 20% of our eBay business is with North America. If you are ordering from the United States or Canada, you will find dealing with us to be quick and hassle-free. There will be no customs intervention or paperwork, and your purchase should be delivered to your door (air mail) in less than two weeks. Our postal fees are often below cost, so you may be pleasantly surprised at how inexpensive our shipping charges are. Please check out the positive feedback we have received from dozens of satisfied U.S. clients.

New Zealand - eBay will automatically add postage to your purchase. After selecting “buy it now”, don’t pay immediately, but wait for us to send you an invoice. We will then manually remove the postal charge from your bill.

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Maintenance

Like all good swords, this one is not made of modern stainless steel, and will eventually show signs of rust if not maintained. Maintenance is easy: simply keep the blade lightly oiled.  Twenty years of sword exposure has taught me that any kind of light to medium weight oil will do. The oils used in gun care, such as RemOil and Ballistol, will work very well. So will ordinary sewing machine oil or even mineral oil. The "less is often more" adage applies as well. The sword does not need to drip with your oil of choice. This can, in fact, only serve to attract dust that in itself carries moisture. Unless one lives in a very humid environment a light coat of oil, with a quick wipe down after handling, should be sufficient. I personally use a very old rag that has been soaked with various types of oil over the years for the purposes of wiping down. Unless debris needs to be removed from the blade after a cutting session this method has worked well for me. Many people advocate the use of compounds such as Renaissance Wax. These products do have merit and do well on swords that don't see frequent handling. For a sword that will be played with, I mean trained with, frequently I find that a quick wipe down with an oily rag is much more convenient. The scabbard should be considered a transportation and wearing device rather than an article designed for permanent storage. A scabbard can create a pocket of humid air around the blade, or act as a moisture trap, which is unhealthy in the long term. If oxidation occurs, usually in the form of small black spots, use Meguire’s Hot Rims Mag & Aluminium Polish for first class results – available in Australia, the Netherlands and the USA.

The sword's grip can be cared for in a number of ways. Most leather grips have been covered with leather that has been shrunk to fit with beeswax or something similar. The resulting covering is tight and free of give. Products such as Neat's-foot oil may be used. If chosen they should, however, be used sparingly so as not to loosen the fit of the leather. Products such as Saddle Soap or Kiwi Leather Lotion are much preferred to oil based preservatives. These will not loosen the leather over time and will provide protection from the elements. When it gets down to it a leather grip covering requires little maintenance. If it starts to look shabby and worn then it should receive attention, otherwise it is best left alone. A wire grip really requires nothing more than an occasional buffing with steel wool to keep it looking good. Grips of Bone or Ivory should be left alone. If cleaning is required an application of lemon juice should be sufficient to whiten the surface. Wooden grips, if made from stabilized woods require little maintenance. 

The Medieval Shoppe

Proudly run by Abingdon Tr. Pty. Limited

Lake Heights (Wollongong), New South Wales, Australia

Tel: (02) 42749358

93-ICS800