Submitted for your perusal is this EXTRA CLEAN AND POWERFUL, vintage, KENMORE sewing machine.
Sorry Singer, Kenmore became King of the Hill in the 1970's.
When Singer abandoned it's Quality First philosophy in the early '70s, Kenmore picked up the slack, offering solid metal, no nonsense sewing machines like this one. They came with 25 year warranties, and it's easy to see why. This baby is ready for a second lifetime of service!
This all-metal, solid vintage KENMORE is in GREAT condition! It runs and sews PERFECTLY! It has been professionally serviced, the timing, needlebar, feed timing and tensions have all be set to perfection. It will arrive 100% ready to sew...
GUARANTEED!
If you are looking for a quality-built sewing machine that will out-perform anything you can buy today, but do not want the burden of an enormous, 200 lb. super-fast industrial model, then read on!
A wonderful sewing machine for pretty much anything you would want to sew in your home! From silk to leather, with its powerful motor, this machine can handle it all. Just install the appropriate size and type needle, and you will be on your way!
Have an upholstery you would like to do? Tarps you want to sew? A boat that needs repair? Household projects? Leather? Vinyl? Dog collars? Crafts? General use? Whatever you need it for, this one will NOT disappoint!
I have been a professional costume tailor for years, working with various materials, including leather, vinyl, and assorted fabrics. I know the frustration of being underpowered, or working with a machine that will simply not feed material properly...
This is what you will face with a cheaply made, plastic-bodied, nylon-geared model that passes for a sewing machine today. Technology has increased, but sadly, quality has NOT! If you can throw it more than 5 feet, you don’t want it!!!
Aside from Industrial, the only way to get an all-metal workhorse of a sewing machine today is to…
Go Retro!
Extra high presser foot lift - only on certain Kenmores
The mechanical design of this machine is simple and time-proven. It features a vertical oscillating hook, and uses a removable bobbin case, which makes changing lower thread tension much easier.
This design also allows for excellent clearance when using heavy thread, and the Class 15 bobbins are number one when it comes to thread capacity! It also accepts most standard low-shank feet and attachments.
Kenmore was number one when it came to presser foot clearance. You have to see the pics to believe the max. space under the foot!
Replaceable parts are readily available, and it takes standard class 15 bobbins and regular 15x1 flat-side needles. Both can be found at any sewing supply store, or even Wal-Mart.
I do want to mention that I do NOT have any stitch cams for this machine. It only sews a straight stitch without cams. But if they are easily found on ebay and it can do multiple zig zag and decorative stitches if you get them.
Click pictures to enlarge...
8 layers of heavy canvas, no problem.
6 layers of marine vinyl! No problem.
4 layers of upholstery leather, no problem!
You will receive…
*Downloadable copy of the original manual
*Package of bobbins
*New package of needles
*Foot control/Power cord
If you have any questions regarding this machine, as always, I am available to talk with you. If you question whether or not this machine will do the job you have in mind, ask,, and I will answer you HONESTLY!!! I am looking for happy, satisfied, enthusiastic customers, and I will not steer you wrong!
Also, this machine will be expertly packed in a NEW BOX, using hard foam and bubble-wrap to insulate the machine from impact.
My numbers are (704) 846-7346 and (704) 560-5360. My name is Marc.
“Every day’s a holiday, every meal’s a feast!”
Sewing Leather
I
am sure that many sewing machine aficionados and antique sewing
machine collectors would cringe to see a machine like this being used
sew leather... and would be quick to point out that they "were not
intended for that..."
But
hey, a 1949 Cadillac wasn't originally intended to be a race car
either, but they were turned into race cars because they were fast!
Well, in the same spirit, many vintage all metal sewing machines can be
used to sew thicker materials than than they were "intended" to sew.
Pedantic, narrow-minded thinkers would tell you that you shouldn't do
that... Well, I say "The proof is in the pudding!!!"
"Oh, but it will hurt the machine..."
HOGWASH!
Are you kidding me? We are talking about a solid cast iron machine
with steel connecting rods, cams and lobes. The truth is that many
parts on domestic machines from the '50s were also used on Industrial
models! And that's the truth!!!!! This is a tool that is meant to be
used. Anything that might get damaged or hurt on this machine can be
replaced! Realistic worst case scenario would be a broken hook... Big
deal, they still make them, and you can buy a new one for $10 from me
if that happens! If you are inexperienced, you might, out of
ignorance, burn up the motor. But they can be replaced as well, and
you probably won't do that if you read a little further...
Yes,
we may be "bending the rules" a little, but we are simply trying to
find a realistic, practical and affordable way to get the job done!
And that's what it's all about! This type of machine is the last stop
before an expensive, full-blown, 200 lb. stationary machine.
Advice for sewing leather...
Know
your sewing machine! Even though these machines are motorized, get
used to turning it by hand. This is often the best way to start
stitching and to approach a stopping point. It is the only way to
start sewing leather. Turn the wheel to lower the needle past the
resistance, and at it's lowest point, you can engage the motor. When
turning corners, stop shy of the corner, and hand turn the wheel until
you are ready to pivot. With the needle down, lift the foot and pivot
your leather. To avoid skipped stitches, turn the needle down and let
it just begin it's upward travel before lifting the foot and pivoting.
If your motor begins to stall or hang up, STOP!!!!
Turn the wheel by hand for a couple stitches then try the motor again.
Also, it is not recommended to sew leather in reverse. To lock the
stitch, sew a few stitches, then turn your material 180 degrees and sew
the other way, then back again.
I hope to add a lot more to this section in the future, so feel free to check back.
Thanks!
I'd like to go over the phrase "Industrial Strength."
It
is admitedly vague, and, I'm afraid often misused and/or overused on
ebay. I will give you my own definition of "Industrial Strength" and
hopefully that will give some reference to the expectations of this
type of sewing machine.
My definition of an Industrial Strength Sewing Machine...
An
Industrial Strength sewing machine is a domestic machine that was built
to a very high standard of performance and durability in that it
can perform heavy-duty sewing tasks with reliability and relative
ease. These machines MUST feature ALL METAL
workings, (i.e. gears and connecting rods) and cast iron or aluminum
heads (housings/body). They are portable or can be mounted into a
standard sewing cabinet. They are self-contained, meaning that the
motor, whether internal or external, is part of the machine.
The unmodified presser foot clearance is 5/16" to a maximum on some
machines of 3/8".
Excluded
from this category would be any models that feature nylon/plastic
gears. Although the design of some of these machines is proven, the
gears themselves cannot stand up to time or stress.
Today, virtually NO SEWING MACHINES,
other than full-blown industrial machines are all metal! Thus, by (my)
definition, Industrial Strength machines are inherently vintage,
generally from the 1960's and back.
An
added implication is that a machine described as Industrial Strength
would exclude any known "problem" models, or models for which parts are
no longer available.
My description of a TRUE Industrial Sewing Machine...
(I own several Industrial sewing machines, so I can very easily discuss them)
An
industrial sewing machine is a very large and heavy machine (usually
about 75 lbs.) that CANNOT work independently. They are all metal, and
are driven by a seperate motor (usually a clutch motor weighing about
45 lbs. itself) that is mounted underneath an industrial sewing stand.
The stand with a mounted motor is called a "power stand." They usually
run on 220v 3-phase power, but some are standard household 110-115
volts.
There
are literally hundreds, maybe thousands of different kinds of
industrial sewing machines. They are usually built for very specific
functions, including overlocking, button hole making, blind stitching,
bag closing, carpet binding, zig zag stitching, etc. But the basic
machine is a straight stitch machine. These machines are
generally modified and fitted with various attachments that
direct their function to one single job in a factory. These are almost
always self-oiling machines, which means they sit in an oil pan and use
an internal pump to circulate lubricant throughout the head's moving
parts. Since they were designed for factory production, they run EXTREMELY FAST!!! And
are often very difficult to control at lower speeds. The average speed
of an industrial straight stitch machine is 5,000 stitches per minute.
They have a maximum presser foot lift of about 1/2".
An
industrial straight stitch machine setup is hardly practical for home
use, though some people do own them. They are permanent fixtures,
weighing over 200 lbs. and taking up an area of floor about 4 feet wide.
I am often asked if the machines I am selling are walking foot machines.
My definition of a Walking Foot Machine...
A walking foot machine is STRICTLY INDUSTRIAL!
It is basically a straight stitch machine that is designed to feed
materials evenly (top and bottom pieces). It features a two-piece foot
that moves one side at a time along with the feed. As it moves, it
appears to "walk".
There is no such thing as a domestic walking foot machine!
They do make a universal attachment that you can mount on a
domestic machine. This attachment is made to serve the same purpose as
a walking foot. They are sometimes called walking foot attachments,
but this is a misnomer as it does not duplicate the motion of a true
walking foot machine. They are also known as a plaid matchers. If you
are interested in one, they are readily available for all styles of
domestic machines.
I hope this information will help you in your decision.
Again, I am always happy to answer any questions either by email or phone.
Thank you for your consideration
On Nov-04-09 at 09:36:34 PST, seller added the following information:
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