TO GIVE SOME CLARITY TO THE PHRASE “INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH“, PLEASE SEE MY DEFINITION AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS LISTING.
I HAVE ALSO INCLUDED A WRITE-UP ABOUT LEATHER SEWING JUST BELOW THE PICTURES!
Submitted for your perusal is this BEAUTIFUL AND POWERFUL, vintage CLASS 15 sewing machine
THIS IS A VERY VERY NICE MACHINE!!!!!! TIME-CAPSULE PIECE!
This high quality machine can sew virtually anything you can fit under the foot! Tough enough for dense leather and canvas, yet gentle enough for light weight materials as well. This is possible because you are able to control the feed height with the dial on the right side of the bed. Just set the feed height to where you want it, install the appropriate needle, and you are ready to go!
This solid metal machine was made in Japan in the 1950's. Every aspect of this machine screams quality!
Don't get sniped! It is worth every penny of the BUY IT NOW price! In fact, back in the 195os, this machine would have cost around $200, which translates to OVER $1,000 in today's money. But here's the catch...
YOU CAN'T EVEN BUY A MACHINE LIKE THIS TODAY...
AT ANY PRICE!!!
Now, it is ready for a second lifetime of service! If you are looking for a heavy-duty sewing machine that will out-perform anything you can buy today, but do not want the burden of an enormous, 200 lb. super-fast industrial model, then you came to the right auction!
This machine sews perfectly, and has been FULLY PROFESSIONALLY SERVICED! Timing, needlbar, and feed timing settings have all been checked and adjusted as needed. It has been fully tested, and will arrive 100% READY TO GO...
GUARANTEED!
YOU CAN SEE IN THE ABOVE PICTURE THAT THE HOOK TIMING COULD NOT BE ANY BETTER
VERY RELIABLE OSCILLATING HOOK SYSTEM
10 LAYERS OF HEAVY DENIM WITH GREAT EASE!
4 LAYERS OF UPHOLSTERY LEATHER!
6 LAYER OF MARINE NAUGAHYDE! This is a great sewing machine for pretty much anything you would want to sew in your home! From silk to leather, this machine can handle it all. Just install the appropriate size and type needle, and you will be on your way!
Have an upholstery you would like to do? Tarps you want to sew? A boat that needs repair? Household projects? Leather? Vinyl? Dog collars? Crafts? General use? Whatever you need it for, this one will not disappoint!
PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE BOTTOM STICHES... ANY PIECE OF JUNK CAN SEW A PRETTY TOP STITCH, BUT THE BOTTOM STITCH TELLS THE TALE! ALL BOTTOM STITCHES ARE BEAUTIFULLY BALANCED AND TIGHT, EVEN ON THE THICK, DENSE LEATHER!
I have been a professional costume tailor for years, working with various materials, including leather, vinyl, and assorted fabrics. I know the frustration of being underpowered, or working with a machine that will simply not feed material properly...
This is what you will face with a cheaply made, plastic-bodied, nylon-geared model that passes for a sewing machine today. Technology has increased, but sadly, quality has NOT! If you can throw it more than 5 feet, you don’t want it!!!
Aside from Industrial, the only way to get an all-metal workhorse of a sewing machine today is to…
Go Retro
The mechanical design of this machine is simple and time-proven. It features a vertical oscillating hook, and uses a removable bobbin case, which makes changing lower thread tension much easier.
This design also allows for excellent clearance when using heavy thread, and the Class 15 bobbins are number one when it comes to thread capacity! It also accepts ALL standard low-shank feet and attachments, such as button hole makers. Since it is a straight-stitch machine, the feed dog configuration is tight, and condusive to excellent feeding of heavy materials. You can also lower the feed for darning or free-motion embroidery.
Replaceable parts are readily available, and it takes standard class 15 bobbins and regular 15x1 flat-side needles. Both can be found at any sewing supply store, or even Wal-Mart.
You will receive…
*Foot control/Power cord
*Copy of comparable manual
*Package of bobbins
*New package of needles
*Zipper/Cord foot
*Straigh stitch foot (installed)
If you have any questions regarding this machine, as always, I am available to talk with you. If you question whether or not this machine will do the job you have in mind, ask,, and I will answer you HONESTLY!!! I am looking for happy, satisfied, enthusiastic customers, and I will not steer you wrong!
Also, this machine will be expertly packed in a NEW BOX, using hard foam and bubble-wrap to insulate the machine from impact.
My numbers are (704) 846-7346 and (704) 560-5360. My name is Marc.
“Every day’s a holiday, every meal’s a feast!”
Shipping is a flat $39 for lower 48, and parcel post for Hawaii and Alaska. For priority shipping to Hawaii and Alaska, the shipping charge will be $65.
Sewing Leather
I am sure that many sewing machine aficionados and antique sewing machine collectors would cringe to see a machine like this being used sew leather... and would be quick to point out that they "were not intended for that..."
But hey, a 1949 Cadillac wasn't originally intended to be a race car either, but they were turned into race cars because they were fast! Well, in the same spirit, many vintage all metal sewing machines can be used to sew thicker materials than than they were "intended" to sew. Pedantic, narrow-minded thinkers would tell you that you shouldn't do that... Well, I say "The proof is in the pudding!!!"
"Oh, but it will hurt the machine..."
HOGWASH! Are you kidding me? We are talking about a solid cast iron machine with steel connecting rods, cams and lobes. The truth is that many parts on domestic machines from the '50s were also used on Industrial models! And that's the truth!!!!! This is a tool that is meant to be used. Anything that might get damaged or hurt on this machine can be replaced! Realistic worst case scenario would be a broken hook... Big deal, they still make them, and you can buy a new one for $10 from me if that happens! If you are inexperienced, you might, out of ignorance, burn up the motor. But they can be replaced as well, and you probably won't do that if you read a little further...
Yes, we may be "bending the rules" a little, but we are simply trying to find a realistic, practical and affordable way to get the job done! And that's what it's all about! This type of machine is the last stop before an expensive, full-blown, 200 lb. stationary machine.
Advice for sewing leather...
Know your sewing machine! Even though these machines are motorized, get used to turning it by hand. This is often the best way to start stitching and to approach a stopping point. It is the only way to start sewing leather. Turn the wheel to lower the needle past the resistance, and at it's lowest point, you can engage the motor. When turning corners, stop shy of the corner, and hand turn the wheel until you are ready to pivot. With the needle down, lift the foot and pivot your leather. To avoid skipped stitches, turn the needle down and let it just begin it's upward travel before lifting the foot and pivoting. If your motor begins to stall or hang up, STOP!!!! Turn the wheel by hand for a couple stitches then try the motor again. Also, it is not recommended to sew leather in reverse. To lock the stitch, sew a few stitches, then turn your material 180 degrees and sew the other way, then back again.
I hope to add a lot more to this section in the future, so feel free to check back.
Thanks!
A word on the phrase "Industrial Strength"...
When I started sewing, I bought a new sewing machine. It didn't take me long to find that it was very underpowered and cheaply made. I then went to the other extreme and bought an industrial model. Obviously, that provided me with enough power to sew pretty much anything I wanted. I also bought a WAKING FOOT machine, which I thought would be handy for heavier materials. I wound up selling it... More on this later.
I became enamored with vintage machines when I bought my first one. It was an old Singer. Initially, I thought it was an industrial model, but later found out that it was not. But I was struck by how well it compared to my Industrial! That particular machine even used the same bobbins as my industrial machine! It was made with all metal parts and used a basic functional mechanical design.
This is not to say that all vintage machines were of quality. There were plenty of duds back then as well, but in time, I learned how to distinguish which models were winners, and which were losers. I only deal in machines that I regard as extremely well-built, with a poven design that are in excellent mechanical condition.
These criteria exclude pretty much any sewing machine built after the late 1960s. From what I have observed, this is about the time that plastic, or nylon gears came into use. Also, as time went on, they started making machines with multiple functions. Some worked well, but many did not. Look at it like this, the more frills there are, the more there is to go wrong.
So, my definition of an Industrial Strength machine would be...
A domestic machine that was built to a very high standard of performance and durability in that it can perform heavy-duty sewing tasks with reliability and relative ease. These machines MUST feature ALL METAL workings, (i.e. gears and connecting rods) and cast iron or aluminum heads (housings/body). They are portable or can be mounted into a standard sewing cabinet. They are self-contained, meaning that the motor, whether internal or external, is part of the machine. The unmodified presser foot clearance is 5/16" to a maximum on some machines of 3/8".
Excluded from this category would be any models that feature nylon/plastic gears. Although the design of some of these machines is proven, the gears themselves cannot stand up to time or stress.
My description of a TRUE Industrial Sewing Machine...
An industrial sewing machine is a very large and heavy machine (usually about 75 lbs. for the head itself) that CANNOT work independently. They are all metal, and are driven by a seperate motor (usually a clutch motor weighing about 50 lbs. itself) that is mounted underneath an industrial sewing stand. The stand with a mounted motor is called a "power stand." They usually run on 220v 3-phase power, but some are standard household 110-115 volts.
There are literally hundreds, maybe thousands of different kinds of industrial sewing machines. They are usually built for very specific functions, including overlocking, button hole making, blind stitching, bag closing, carpet binding, zig zag stitching, etc. But the basic machine is a straight stitch machine. These machines are generally modified and fitted with various attachments that direct their function to one single job in a factory. These are almost always self-oiling machines, which means they sit in an oil pan and use an internal pump to circulate lubricant throughout the head's moving parts. Since they were designed for factory production, they run EXTREMELY FAST!!! And are often very difficult to control. The average speed of an industrial straight stitch machine is 5,000 stitches per minute. They have a maximum presser foot lift of about 1/2".
Walking Foot Machines
See my guide for a detailed discussion of walking foot machines. I sold mine because I never used it. I found it to be unweidly, and basically overkill for most of my projects, even leather and vinyl. The biggest benefit of a walking foot machine is the even feeding of two materials, especialy slick materials, or materials that require pattern matching. For most projects, that trouble can be overcome with the use of an inexpensive teflon or roller foot.
A walking foot machine is NO MORE POWERFUL THAN A REGULAR STRAIGHT STITCH INDUSTRIAL MACHINE! The same kind of clutch motor drives each! The walking foot refers to the feeding of material, not the strength of the machine!
I hope this has been helpful, if you have any further questions, feel free to contact me.
Thanks for your consideration.
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