***SEE MY OTHER AUCTIONS!!!***
PLESAE NOTE: TO GIVE CLARITY AND ASSISTANCE IN MAKING YOUR DECISION REGARDING A SEWING MACHINE, I OFFER MY DEFINITION OF INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS LISTING.
Submitted for your perusal is this CLEAN AND POWERFUL Singer 15-91 sewing machine.
But more importantly, it's condition is reflective of how well it has been treated over the past 50+ years. You will have a very hard time finding a nicer 15-91 anywhere for any price!... Let alone the rare "Centennial Anniversary" edition!
Believe it or not...
In 1952, a new Singer 15-91 sold for $283.50. In 2008 dollars, that translates to $2,275!!!!!!! Buying a sewing machine back in those days was like buying a very expensive appliance today, it was very common to finance one. Sewing machines of that era were of EXTREMELY high quality, and produced to exacting standards... But here's the kicker, you cannot buy a sewing machine made like this today for ANY PRICE because there is nothing produced today that is made as well as this model was!
If you are in the market for the all-around most reliable and time-proven sewing machine ever made, then you won't do better than this one!
You can count on a 15-91 to be able to sew anything from silk to leather. If it can't be sewn with this machine, you will have to go with a full-blown commercial model. Please see the pictures for detailed samples of the stitch quality of this well-preserved, and perfectly sewing classic!
When viewing pictures of the stitch samples, pay close attention to the last one of each group. They show the bottom stitches. There is no better telltale of the condition of a machine than the lower stitch. It should be smooth and balanced with the top. Any piece of junk can produce a pretty top stitch, but to make a nice lower stitch, the machine needs to be set up and running correctly.
4 Layers of Leather!
10 Layers of Denim!
6 Layers of Marine Naugahyde!!!
Reliable oscillating hook design
INCLUDED IN THIS AUCTION IS...*1 ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL AND PERFECTLY SEWING SINGER 15-91
*FOOT CONTROL/POWER CORD
*DOWNLOADABLE OWNERS MANUAL
*STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT
*NEW PACKAGE OF CLASS 15 BOBBINS
*NEW PACKAGE OF NEEDLES
Class 15 machines are perhaps the best machine for feeding materials, particularly heavy materials and leather. But it can also be adjusted to sew and gently feed the most delicate materials as well, using the appropriate needle.
If you are looking for quality, don't waste your time or money on a brand new, light-weight sewing machine. If you are reading this auction, then you are probably looking for a machine that outperform a new model. The only way to get an all-metal heavy duty sewing machine today is to...
GO RETRO!!!
I have worked for years as a full-time tailor, and in my professional opinion, most modern sewing machines aren't worth the cheap parts they're made from. If it contains any plastic or "nylon", I wouldn't have it! In my ignorance, when I started out, I bought and literally went through 3 well-known "name brand" modern tabletop models in a single year! Each one of them literally came apart on the inside. Gears exploded, spindles would strip off their thin little rods, but amazingly none of the motors broke, they were just plain weak! I couldn't even sew through a folded piece of soft vinyl without trouble!
On the other hand, a machine like this is the closest thing you can come to full-blown industrial without committing to a 4 foot long, 200 lb. machine. With a solid metal crankshaft and connecting rods, the workings of this machine are similar to those in the engine of a car!
The Singer 15 is the world's most time-proven model sewing machine. Singer began making it in the 1800's, and there are still variations of it being produced to this day. This machine is just plain fun to use and to watch, with it's unique left-facing, back to front threading system. This machine features a direct gear driven internal motor, no belt.
It has reversible feed for easy backstitching and you can drop the feed dogs for an extra degree of presser foot control, making darning, or even free-motion embroidery possible.
I have no qualms at all at saying this machine has industrial POWER... Not speed for mass production, mind you, but Power. It is NOT a high production commercial machine. But it will indeed sew leather, vinyl, sunbrella, denim and whatever else you would want to sew in your home. If you are going to start an upholstrey business, you should buy a commercial walking foot which was designed for constant heavy production. But if you only need to sew through 12 layers of demin or 6 layers of leather occasionally (grin, wink) and don't want a 200lb. 4 ft. long machine sitting in your living room, then you cannot go wrong here.
This machine is very nice. The japanning is intact, though the laquer clear coat has aged some. The "triplets" gold leaf decals set is virtually complete, and the brightwork is bright . I genuinely admire these old machines... Dating to the mid century, this machine was built when quality was still king.
Bid to win, or you can win immediately by using the buy it now option. Avoid the snipers or a bidding war!
If you have been looking for solid workhorse of a sewing machine to do a variety of tasks, then you have found it. I've done all the dirty work, you can enjoy the fruits of my labor. You will not go wrong with this one.
I'll be happy to answer any questions you have. Heck, you can even call me and I'll let you listen to it run over the phone! If you are in question as to whether or not this machine will do the job you have in mind, please give me a call and I will answer you HONESTLY. I am looking for happy, satisfied customers. Check my feedback!(704) 846-7346 or (704) 560-5360.
Thanks, and have fun.
Everyday's a holiday, every meal's a feast!
***SEE MY OTHER AUCTIONS!!!***
Sewing Leather
I
am sure that many sewing machine aficionados and antique sewing
machine collectors would cringe to see a machine like this being used
sew leather... and would be quick to point out that they "were not
intended for that..."
But
hey, a 1949 Cadillac wasn't originally intended to be a race car
either, but they were turned into race cars because they were fast!
Well, in the same spirit, many vintage all metal sewing machines can be
used to sew thicker materials than than they were "intended" to sew.
Pedantic, narrow-minded thinkers would tell you that you shouldn't do
that... Well, I say "The proof is in the pudding!!!"
"Oh, but it will hurt the machine..."
HOGWASH!
Are you kidding me? We are talking about a solid cast iron machine
with steel connecting rods, cams and lobes. The truth is that many
parts on domestic machines from the '50s were also used on Industrial
models! And that's the truth!!!!! This is a tool that is meant to be
used. Anything that might get damaged or hurt on this machine can be
replaced! Realistic worst case scenario would be a broken hook... Big
deal, they still make them, and you can buy a new one for $10 from me
if that happens! If you are inexperienced, you might, out of
ignorance, burn up the motor. But they can be replaced as well, and
you probably won't do that if you read a little further...
Yes,
we may be "bending the rules" a little, but we are simply trying to
find a realistic, practical and affordable way to get the job done!
And that's what it's all about! This type of machine is the last stop
before an expensive, full-blown, 200 lb. stationary machine.
Advice for sewing leather...
Know
your sewing machine! Even though these machines are motorized, get
used to turning it by hand. This is often the best way to start
stitching and to approach a stopping point. It is the only way to
start sewing leather. Turn the wheel to lower the needle past the
resistance, and at it's lowest point, you can engage the motor. When
turning corners, stop shy of the corner, and hand turn the wheel until
you are ready to pivot. With the needle down, lift the foot and pivot
your leather. To avoid skipped stitches, turn the needle down and let
it just begin it's upward travel before lifting the foot and pivoting.
If your motor begins to stall or hang up, STOP!!!!
Turn the wheel by hand for a couple stitches then try the motor again.
Also, it is not recommended to sew leather in reverse. To lock the
stitch, sew a few stitches, then turn your material 180 degrees and sew
the other way, then back again.
I hope to add a lot more to this section in the future, so feel free to check back.
Thanks!
A word on the phrase "industrial Strength"...
When I started sewing, I bought a new Singer. It didn't take me long to find that it was very underpowered and cheaply made. I then went to the other extreme and bought an industrial machine, which is a basic straight stitch machine with reverse. Obviously, that provided me with enough power to sew pretty much anything I wanted. I also bought a WALKING FOOT machine, which I thought would be handy for heavier materials. I wound up selling it... More on this later.
I became enamored with vintage machines when I bought my first one. It was an old Singer. Initially, I thought it was an industrial model, but later found out that it was not. But I was struck by how well it compared to my Juki! That particular machine even used the same bobbins as my industrial machine! It was made with all metal parts and used a basic functional mechanical design.
This is not to say that all vintage machines were of quality. There were plenty of duds back then as well, but in time, I learned how to distinguish which models were winners, and which were losers. I only deal in machines that I regard as extremely well-built, with a proven design that are in excellent mechanical condition.
These criteria exclude pretty much any sewing machine built after the late 1960s. From what I have observed, this is about the time that plastic, or nylon gears came into use. Also, as time went on, they started making machines with multiple functions. Some worked well, but many did not. Look at it like this, the more frills there are, the more there is to go wrong.
So, my definition of an Industrial Strength machine would be...
A domestic machine that was built to a very high standard of performance and durability in that it can perform heavy-duty sewing tasks with reliability and relative ease. These machines MUST feature ALL METAL workings, (i.e. gears and connecting rods) and cast iron or aluminum heads (housings/body). They are portable or can be mounted into a standard sewing cabinet. They are self-contained, meaning that the motor, whether internal or external, is part of the machine. The unmodified presser foot clearance is 5/16" to a maximum on some machines of 3/8".
Excluded from this category would be any models that feature nylon/plastic gears. Although the design of some of these machines is proven, the gears themselves cannot stand up to time or stress.
My description of a TRUE Industrial Sewing Machine...
An industrial sewing machine is a very large and heavy machine (usually about 75 lbs. for the head itself) that CANNOT work independently. They are all metal, and are driven by a seperate motor (usually a clutch motor weighing about 50 lbs. itself) that is mounted underneath an industrial sewing stand. The stand with a mounted motor is called a "power stand." They usually run on 220v 3-phase power, but some are standard household 110-115 volts.
There are literally hundreds, maybe thousands of different kinds of industrial sewing machines. They are usually built for very specific functions, including overlocking, button hole making, blind stitching, bag closing, carpet binding, zig zag stitching, etc. But the basic machine is a straight stitch machine. These machines are generally modified and fitted with various attachments that direct their function to one single job in a factory. These are almost always self-oiling machines, which means they sit in an oil pan and use an internal pump to circulate lubricant throughout the head's moving parts. Since they were designed for factory production, they run EXTREMELY FAST!!! And are often very difficult to control. The average speed of an industrial straight stitch machine is 5,000 stitches per minute. They have a maximum presser foot lift of about 1/2".
Walking Foot Machines
See my guide for a detailed discussion of walking foot machines. I sold mine because I never used it. I found it to be unweidly, and basically overkill for most of my projects, even leather and vinyl. The biggest benefit of a walking foot machine is the even feeding of two materials, especialy slick materials, or materials that require pattern matching. For most projects, that trouble can be overcome with the use of an inexpensive teflon or roller foot.
A walking foot machine is NO MORE POWERFUL THAN A REGULAR STRAIGHT STITCH INDUSTRIAL MACHINE! The same kind of clutch motor drives each! The walking foot refers to the feeding of material, not the strength of the machine!
I hope this has been helpful, if you have any further questions, feel free to contact me.
Thanks for your consideration.
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On Nov-09-09 at 08:26:22 PST, seller added the following information:
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