ps300/9105es/18995/2285/1890
NEW
PS-300 Starter
Strobe Kit V - All
Brand New for 2003!
How is it possible to sell
this fantastic, BRAND NEW equipment for such a low price?
Don't ask! Just
bid! (OK,
then, ask if you must!)
Here's
a GREAT New Starter Strobe Package! All
!
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Here's what you get:
1) One Britek PS-300 Professional Strobe
150WS!
(Show me)
---(With Built-in Umbrella Holder, Standard
Light stand connector, Flash Tube, Modeling light Bulb, etc.)
2) One Unique Umbrella-Capable Reflector
(Show Me)
3) One 6 1/2 foot Light Stand (Show Me) <- Free upgrade to 7' light stand
4) One 32" Black/White Reflection Umbrella (Show Me)
5) One 32" Transparent "Shoot-Through" Umbrella
(Show
Me) <- NEW!
6) One 10' Power Cord
7) One 10' Sync (PC) Cord (Show Me)
8) All bulbs (flash tube,
modeling light bulb, etc.)
Just scroll down or click on a "Show Me" link to jump
down. (Kit #9105)
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|
What's the price? What's the price? What's the
shipping? See below! |
FREE
Photographic Tips and Techniques in EVERY PhotoSource3 auction!
Where? See below: Here
and Here |
#K9105
NEW! No waiting for an Auction
to end! Bid Now = Buy NOW!
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|
Dear Visitor: Welcome to my eBay
store fixed-price venue! This format allows you to make your
purchases INSTANTLY! No bidding (and no chance of being outbid, no
chance of the price increasing,
and no
chance of losing out on the auction). This is just like making
any regular purchase; simply placing your bid, places your order!
Order one item or package, and one gets shipped right away; order
2, and both get shipped right away (once you pay for them, of
course:).
So just decide how many of these
fabulous Starter Strobe Kits you want, and as soon as you place your order
(and pay), your new goodies will be on their way to you - right
away!
|
| Be Careful,
dear friends, when you choose your photographic equipment!
All strobes and kits are NOT equal... and you should know
what you're ordering before spending your hard-earned
money. |
|
Take Care, gentle
photographer - when choosing your lighting
equipment. There are many strobes and much lighting equipment
of lesser quality, fewer capabilities, and much less versatility
being sold online nowadays. Of course, it's you who will make
the decision about who you will buy from, and which equipment
you will buy; however, before making your purchasing decisions
(and forking over your hard-earned cash:), ask yourself a few
questions: Do these
strobes come with modeling lights? Do these strobes have removable reflectors? Does it
come with variable-power capabilities? Is it expandable and
are there accessories available for the strobes to easily and
inexpensively expand your lighting capabilities? Does it
come with a guarantee backed by an American-based manufacturer/distributor
to provide warrantee service or replacement? Does it even come
with a warrantee? If the kit includes umbrellas, are they appropriately
matched to the strobe's output power? Does it come with an American
power plug, or does it require adapters just to make it work
(at extra cost to you, as well)? And how much help and information
can you expect from the seller? If the equipment you're considering
buying fits your needs, even without the capabilities I usually
like my equipment to have, then make your purchase knowing
what you're ordering and what you're going to have to work with
when your equipment arrives. I'm not suggesting that you shouldn't
buy equipment with lesser capabilities, just that you should
understand what you're getting before you spend your hard-earned
money. But, of course, you're the customer, and you
decide what to buy, and from whom to buy it.
Here's why I like my strobes
to come with the capabilities I've described: 1) If a strobe doesn't come with a modeling light,
you'll have no way to know what your picture will look like until
after you get the prints back! In fact, modeling lights
are probably the greatest capability any strobe can have (especially
for beginners in studio lighting). See below
for details on modeling lights. 2) If a strobe doesn't
have a removable reflector, then you can't control the light
spread (coverage angle) - you're stuck with whatever output angle
the strobe comes with, so it's far less useful to us (sometimes
we want a narrow light spread to highlight our subject; other
times we want to remove the reflector completely for a broad
180º light spread to light backgrounds, large areas, or
groups, for example). 3) If a strobe doesn't
have variable power capabilities, you'll need a larger studio
area because you'll have to physically move the strobes farther
away from your subject in order to reduce the light when needed
(with variable power strobes - such as these - we simply flip
a switch). 4) If you're only buying 2-3 master strobes, you're
much better off having them be of the same power; it makes
it quicker and (much) easier to set up your shots and allows
you to get perfect exposures more easily. 5) One
of the greatest disappointments for new strobe owners is to discover
that they cannot (easily and inexpensively) expand the capabilities
of their lights (by using color filters/gels to allow us to change
the color of our backgrounds and subjects or to direct and modify
the light with barndoors because the strobes we bought didn't
have the ability to use these helpful accessories, etc.). 6) And finally, if you're buying umbrellas with your
kit, the size of an umbrella should be matched to the strobe's
output; too large of an umbrella will result in too much
light reduction (and consequently forces you to use either a
very slow shutter speed, or a much larger aperture, which cuts
down your depth of field, and may be out of reach for many zoom
lenses), and too small an umbrella will allow light spillover
and substantially decreased effect. That's why I always match
the correct umbrella size to the strobes' output power in all
my packages (if you want larger or smaller umbrellas, just ask;
you da boss:).
So use your head, choose your equipment carefully, review the
seller's feedback, check out the supplier's web sites,
and no matter where you buy your equipment, have fun and make
some great pictures! Thank you for visiting this auction, your
time and consideration are most sincerely appreciated. You might
care to review my business philosophy, if you like.
|
| Using
a Digital Camera? There are those
who "claim" their strobes will work perfectly with
ALL digital cameras. Ha!
BEWARE, dear friends, beware. This
is untrue! There are some digital cameras which will NOT
work with pro strobes, and unlike the others who DON'T tell you
the truth, I've explained this situation ethically and honestly
(see THIS
for the explanation). When you deal with Photographer's SupplyStation
- PhotoSource3 on eBay, you get more than just great equipment
and fabulousely low prices - you also get honesty, integrity,
and help, too. I won't sell an item that will disappoint you
(just check my feedback for proof of this). Even though
the cheaper strobes may cost less than the decent equipment I
sell; often in life, we find that the cheapest things
we buy end up costing us the most money in the end. But "you
pays your money, and you takes your choice," and no matter
who you buy your photographic equipment from, I wish you all
the best! See my business philosophy. |
| BTW,
ever run across other sellers
instructing you to go to a search engine and search for some
specific item (in a foolish attempt to
convince you that their products are cheaper)? Of course
they'll tell you to find the most expensive "similar"
items they can find listed anywhere on the web! The fact that
they're unsophisticated enough to think that WE will actually
fall for these old tricks speaks more eloquently than I could
ever hope to equal! I have no doubt that none of my
(wonderful and cherished:) bidders will fall for that old trick!
Oh well, it takes all kinds, huh? |
| Important:
I have many auctions that are not
listed at the top of the eBay auctions page, and lots of additional
equipment available for immediate purchase (no waiting
for an auction to end, and no chance of being outbid) in my eBay store! The only way to be sure
you haven't missed something that might be perfect for your
needs is to check ALL my eBay auctions and store items by clicking
HERE! <-
Clicking here will open up a new page in your browser with a
list of my auctions and eBay store items; this auction
page will remain open behind the new page, so you won't lose
your place. |
The NEW 2003 Britek
PS-300 Professional
Studio Flash
The NEW PS-300 Monolight
| This
brand new Britek PS-300 is a great starter Monolight for the
beginning professional, the pro with tight budget constraints,
or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional
look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house). |
| Why
are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios)
WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner
of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT. In our studios,
we can play God! We can make it daytime or evening or night;
we can shoot 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. We can CREATE anything
we can imagine - as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT! |
|
After all, the word
"photographer" itself (from Greek) actually
means Light Writer, or "one who writes with light."
The term is meaningful
because those of us who make photographs are slaves to light.
Light is both our nemesis and our salvation (when we can control
the light). Without the right types of lighting equipment, we
can never progress to professional level studio pictures. Or
location pictures.
Sure, we can make beautiful photos
with available light... when the light's just right, at the exact
time we need it, and at exact place we need it, if it's not raining,
if it's not snowing, if it's not too cold, if it's not too hot,
if it's not too dark, if everyone we need to make the photographs
are available at the exact time the light's just right for our
needs, under all the right conditions.... beginning to see now?
When we can control the light, we can make the best photographs.
|
| PhotoSpeak:
BTW, did you notice, above,
that I said "make" photographs, and not "take"
pictures? Well, here's your first lesson in how pros speak about
photography (photospeak): "Snapshooters" or "point
and shooters," who don't think and plan their shots (e.g.,
most of us) are the ones who "take" pictures (the rank
amateurs). Photographers "make" great photographs by
careful thought, detailed planning, and, most of all, scrupulous
attention to lighting. Before they even think about pressing
that shutter, they "design" their photos carefully.
Soon, with a little effort, you'll be "making"
great photographs! It's not that hard, believe me. But ya gotta
CONTROL THE LIGHT! |
 |
This little beauty cranks out a full
150 watt seconds* for mamma or poppa (or both)!
Why do photographers want powerful
flash equipment (strobes)? Because (both indoors and outdoors)
with strobes, WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! Sound familiar? Starting
to get the picture, now? (sorry, I just couldn't resist ;-)
BTW, did you realize that both
the photo above, and the photo on the left, were both taken against
the same background? Yup. The backdrop was a pure white canvas.
Why does the picture on the left look like it has a brown background?
BECAUSE I COULD CONTROL THE LIGHT. Even with a cheapie old (really
old) digital Fuji (no speed control, no slr, no aperture choice,
etc.). How? See the "technique section below).
Hmmm... Light!
What
the heck is a "Watt Second?" And what's a "GN?"
|
| Technique: How
was I able to make the background that's in the top picture pure
white, and the very same background, in the picture above, appear
brown? It's easy - when you know how (it's sorta like this: What
kind of question is a hard question? Answer: One you don't know
the answer to. And what kind of question is an easy question?
Answer: That's the one you do know the answer to). Here's
how it's done: In the top picture, I lit the background with
a backlight strobe (it's own strobe), so it received enough light
to expose properly, and consequently it came out pure white.
In the picture above, I did not light the background; I just
used the tiny little built-in flash on the digital Fuji, which
was enough to (barely) light the strobe I was photographing,
but too weak to reach or brighten up the backdrop to white; therefore,
the background underexposed and looked brownish, even though
it was really a pure white canvas! Carried to an extreme, I could
even make a white background look black, if I wanted to. How?
By lighting the subject so brightly that the (unlit) background
would underexpose (i.e., not receive enough light) so badly it
would come out black. It's all in the LIGHT folks; it's all
in the light! Remember, a photographer is a LIGHT writer. |
 |
Shop with confidence!
Bid with confidence!
Buy with confidence!
From a Profoundly Proud
eBay
PowerSeller!
This PowerSeller proudly
provides a plethora of perfect photographic products - PLUS -
pure, powerful, and peerless customer service!
|
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Check out all my other wonderful auctions! |
| At
the great price you'll pay for this fabulous strobe, you could
buy 3 or even 4 of them for LESS than you might pay for just
a single competing strobe! BTW, when I tested this fabulous
new strobe, I discovered that it clocked in at an incredible
F16 at 10 feet! Whatta powerful little sucker it is! Plus, you
can set it for full OR half power. |
|
 Technique: BTW, I purposely made the photograph above to
show you an example of a photographic situation (perspective
distortion) that often plagues our amateur images. I used this
technique to distort the relative size of the reflector, compared
to the strobe's body. Look at the picture at the top of this
auction description (or the small one to the left); then look
at the image above. The reflector in the image above appears
larger than it really is, in relation to the body of the strobe
(compare the relative sizes of the strobe and the silver reflector).
Why does this happen? It's called "perspective distortion"
and I'll spare you the physics of the explanation, but whenever
one part of an object is closer to the camera's lens than the
other part of an object, the perspective is distorted (it's due
to the rendering of a 3 dimensional object into a 2 dimensional
image). For fun, try this: come in really close to someone's
face with your camera, and with the person's nose closest to
your lens, take a picture. When the print comes back, you'll
see the nose looks huge (compared to the rest of the face). Of
course, you can do the same with almost any object you photograph.
The lesson? Beware of holding the camera too close to your subject
(unless you want perspective distortion for some reason, like
this example, or for fun). This most often happens when we're
using wide angle lenses (since we can fit more into the frame,
we sometimes bring the camera too close to our subjects), but
it happens with all lenses. For portraiture, use somewhere between
an 85 to 135mm lens (the short telephoto range makes most faces
look better). The opposite of the perspective distortion effect
is a compression of space caused with long telephoto lenses.
If a subject really does have a large nose, shoot your victim
with a longer telephoto lens; it will compress space, and make
the nose look smaller. Just a couple more tricks up the professional
photographer's sleeve. Read on, and learn more.... |
More about the new PS-300.....
As we can see from this top view
(with the reflector removed), The PS-300 allows us to control
the power level output (full or half power), and lets us choose
whether or not we want to turn on the modeling light. |
| This is a Fabulous deal, but let's
not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy
or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing,
my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings,
in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive).
Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter
how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection
is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting
out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur,
these little babies sure make a lot of sense. Let's face it,
your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any
idea whether you paid three hundred or three thousand for each
of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they
cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little
models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna
cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one
in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer
humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography;
you'll see. |
| Now
lemme tell ya about another great feature on these dynamite little
units that's not found on many competing strobes costing 3-5
times the price of these: when you set these units for 1/2 power,
the modeling lights ALSO dim to 1/2 power! What a great feature
(what's a "modeling light?" see the explanation just
below this picture)! [Why, you may ask, would we want to reduce a strobe's
power output? see the "technique" section, below. |
As we can see
from the back view, The New PS-300 is well-stocked with controls
and comes with all the extras already built-in.
The PS-300
is a "Monolight," which means that all the required
components are included in the one package (as opposed to other
strobes which may have the flash head in one segment, and then
need an additional and separate power supply in order to get
it to work; at an additional cost, too). With these units, everything
is included; just plug them in, and fire away!
The "ready"
light goes on to let us know when the strobe is charged and ready
to fire; the "test" button lets us fire the strobe
to test its proper functioning; the "sync" terminal
lets us attach a sync (or PC) cord to the sync terminal on our
cameras to control the firing of the strobe with the shutter
button on our cameras; and the "optical slave sensor"
lets us fire the strobe automatically with the flash of any other
strobe or flash unit. The other controls are pretty much self-explanatory.
|
|
BTW,
a "Modeling
Light" is a separate,
additional, light (in addition to the strobe's "Flash Tube")
that's built into the strobe and throws continuous light over
the same area as the strobe's flash tube will (see the picture
below for a close-up). You turn on the modeling light (before
your shot), so the photographer can see what the modeling will
look like, as s/he adjusts the lights before he takes the shot
and fires the strobe ("Modeling"
is PhotoSpeak for the highlights (light areas) and shadows (dark
areas) that fall upon the subject, giving it the depth and texture
necessary for professional results). This great feature (modeling
light) is usually only found on much more expensive lights.
This unit can be activated by
the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the Slave
Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's
little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's
light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless
you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord"
(Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord"
is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera, and fires
the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button.
Back to top of page
|
 |
We can see the difference between
the Modeling
Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling
bulb) in this close-up shot of the PS-300's business end (with
the reflector removed, of course).
The modeling light is especially valuable to the amateur, because
it let's us "see" exactly where the light will fall
when the strobe flashes. This feature alone is worth at least
a hundred rolls of ruined film (which you'll save by having a
modeling light)! One of the major questions (and hesitations)
I had when I was beginning to learn photography, was "If
you use strobes, how do you know what the subject will look like,
or how and where the light will illuminate the subject, if you
don't have continuous lighting to judge by?"
The answer was really simple:
You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With
modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash
will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls
on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the
subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros
pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights.
That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much
better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job!
They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you.
|
| PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?"
Well, if you had to use
a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled
wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to
light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our
rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into
most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst
of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from
another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in
the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have
slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can
connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord),
usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the
shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will
automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for
that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of
the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off
most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both
a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master"
strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket
(usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave."
Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as
your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most
of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors,
so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are
many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all
your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent
slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with
photography, the time will come). |
|
Complete: Each of these PS-300s comes complete
with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube,
Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light
stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since these
strobes are A.C. units, they're ready to rock! No batteries or
powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just
plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll.
As with all quality strobes, these are capable of using many
additional custom accessories, of course (e.g., snoots, barn
doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders,
etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's
light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer,
reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture.
Softboxes (and SoftCases) and umbrellas are specifically designed
for this purpose (and yes, these are able to use custom-fitted
softboxes & softcases).
These are brand new, 100% guaranteed,
with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT
seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely
perfect, current 2003 models! Just 'cause the price is great,
doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Questions?
Requests? just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at
PhotoSource3@pss3.com
|
|
Point of Information:
Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers
switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous
lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere,
and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with
them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses
(tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot
lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! And
the special photographic hot lights get twice as hot as household
bulbs! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods,
animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models.
They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Whine, gripe, groan;
you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, limp
hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their
lovely curvaceous (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something,
the way they complain! ;-)
Next, there's a little problem
with the "color temperature" being way off with hot
lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters,
or special photographic bulbs, when using them (strobes are perfectly
balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the
regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years).
You'll notice that most of your pictures taken indoors without
using a flash turn out with a yellowish color cast; that's because
household lights are loaded with yellow and red light. The solution
is to either use special films, or special filters. But why create
more problems for yourself? Using strobes eliminates all these
headaches (and heat!). Also, with continuous lights, they're
always shining; usually right in our subject's eyes, causing
squinting and annoyance (and ugly looking pictures). With strobes,
nothing is shining in their eyes, and the flash is too short
to cause any of this discomfort to our beloved subjects (until
AFTER the flash, when they might be chasing all those little
light blips around the room:). Additionally, with strobes, we
can control the light much better! We can adjust the power output
with the flick of a switch. We can modify the light with umbrellas,
softboxes, softcases, filters, scrims and gobos, doo-dahs, and
thingamajigs, etc., etc. We can direct the light with barn doors,
snoots, honeycombs, and many other accessories. In short, with
strobes, we can play God with our photography; WE CAN CONTROL
THE LIGHT! And we can do it 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, whenever
we want, no matter what the weather is, and without regard to
daylight or night. There are yet other, more esoteric, as well
as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic
lighting in the modern world, but we'll pass on those things
for now. You've probably had enough information shoved down your
throat already (sorry, but I can't resist trying to educate everyone
about photography).
|
BTW,
technically speaking, all professional photographic flash units,
even though nearly all pros call them "strobes," are
not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable
of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second,
and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic
strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off
25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost
always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick
with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;->
Back to top |
| PLUS
- You'll also receive
an Umbrella Reflector with every powerful new PS-300 Pro Strobe! |
 |
H70- Umbrella Reflector
Used alone for about
60º coverage, or with barn doors to control lighting spread,
or with an umbrella to create soft and diffuse lighting. This
custom reflector is designed with a special "slot"
in it to allow for the use of an umbrella, without the need for
a special umbrella holder accessory! A unique innovation! This
is usually the reflector that comes with the Britek PS-300 Strobes,
since they have an integral umbrella holder built in to the strobe's
light stand connector. |
| Important:
I have many auctions that are not
listed at the top of the eBay auctions page, and lots of additional
equipment available for immediate purchase (no waiting
for an auction to end, and no chance of being outbid) in my eBay store! The only way to be sure
you haven't missed something that might be perfect for your
needs is to check ALL my eBay auctions and store items by clicking
HERE! <-
Clicking here will open up a new page in your browser with a
list of my auctions and eBay store items; this auction
page will remain open behind the new page, so you won't lose
your place. |
 Technique: Why would we want to dim a strobe to
1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to
be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of
ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect
we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination
to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot
(that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face,
often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face
highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium
shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling,"
and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example,
a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (also 1:3,
1:4, or even 1:5) ratio - full illumination on one side of the
face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's
face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives
the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative
aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination can give us
an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio
of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us
depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting
ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two
strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving
one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice
as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing
the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like
walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios
(especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far
away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient
solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great PS-300)! Now,
instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do
is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at
all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations
from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way
to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is
to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the
shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional"
reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white
poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for
under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great
pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and
use your head!
Back up to the PS-300 description |
Specifications: PS-300 Pro
Studio Monolight
|
| AC
Input |
110-120 Volt |
| AC
Fuse |
5
Amp |
| Modeling
Lamp |
100W Halogen (rated 1,000 hours) |
| Flash
Tube |
BC-100Y
(rated 10,000 flashes) 150WS (huh?) |
| Guide
No. (ISO 100) |
GN:
45 Meters / 150 Feet (huh?) |
| Trigger |
Test button / Slave / PC Cord |
| Slave Effective Distance |
15 Meters / 50 Feet |
| Sync
Socket |
5
ø Standard Earphone Type, 6V DC |
| Diameter
of Light Head |
70 ø mm |
| Recycling
Time |
1-3 Seconds |
| Dimensions
& Weight |
240 x 80 x 140mm 0.65Kg |
|
These units also have
the ability to accept all the standard light-modifying accessories,
of course. |
Back to top
| Q. What the heck is a "WS"
and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean?
. |
|
WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number
Here's a brief explanation (using,
for this example, your (well, it might be yours soon:) new PS-300
strobe, which have a power level of 150WS, and a GN of 150):
The "150WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output
power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical
term "joules," a high-falutin power level. The Guide
Number (GN) of these PS-300 units is also 150 (for ASA/ISO 100
film), with a standard reflector. Often, the Watt Second power
output is close to the guide number. What good is knowing the
guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure
(for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct
approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply
divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe,
into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate
"F" stop.
For example, (presuming you're
using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 150, and the subject is 12
feet away, then: 150 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject)
= 12.5, so we'd use an exposure setting of just over F11. If
our subject is 8 feet away, then: 150 divided by 8 = 18.75 which
would give us an approximate F stop of just over 16. See? Umm,
if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me
years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about
improving your photography, you should consider getting a handheld
flash/ambient light meter see links here
(sorry, I don't carry any at this time, but I'll be glad to offer
some suggestions if you like).
Back
up to the PS-300 description ------------------- Back to top of page
|
| Important:
I have many auctions that are not
listed at the top of the eBay auctions page, and lots of additional
equipment available for immediate purchase (no waiting
for an auction to end, and no chance of being outbid) in my eBay store! The only way to be sure
you haven't missed something that might be perfect for your
needs is to check ALL my eBay auctions and store items by clicking
HERE! <-
Clicking here will open up a new page in your browser with a
list of my auctions and eBay store items; this auction
page will remain open behind the new page, so you won't lose
your place. |
Here's
some information about the items comprising
your new starter studio: Brand New 2.8 to 6.5 Foot Light stand <- Free upgrade to 7'
| Unlike
many of the items you'll find listed on eBay, all these items
are Brand New, not old, used, banged-up cast-offs that someone
else is trying to get rid of. These are 100% new, perfect, and
come with the manufacturer's full warantee. Consider this when
making your purchasing decisions. |
Top:
3/8" stud, 1/4" thread, type A.
Size: 2.8 ft to 7.5 feet; Weight: 2.4 lbs. ea. |
|
Here's a fabulous deal on
an excellent quality light stand. This Brand New Britek light
stand extends to a height of 6 1/2 Feet, and folds down (fully
assembled) to only 2.8 feet for easy packing and transport.
These stands have a black
finish which reduces unwanted glare; three vertical sections
(19mm, 16mm, 13mm), and three double-braced legs (16mm), which
provide excellent stability in the studio or on location. They're
topped with a standard 3/8" stud with 1/4" thread,
type A. Sturdy as all get out, yet only weigh about 3 lbs. (so
you can pack up a set of three stands for under 10 lbs. for location
shoots - believe me, schlepping around anything heavier can give
you a hernia, especially when added to all your other gear).
Yet these babies can be folded up and put in the corner of your
closet and take up very little space.
I've been using these same stands for over 3 years now, and couldn't
be happier! You'll probably love 'em, too. They're sized perfectly
for multiple uses: with a low height of under 3 feet, they're
great for background lighting; at their full 6.5 feet, they're
perfect for lighting standing subjects, lighting from above for
kids or sitting subjects, or even hairlights; and adjusting them
anywhere in-between, they're perfect for subject-level lighting,
whether you're photographing kids or adults (or things)! BTW,
as stated above, you'll be buying brand new stands here, NOT
my used ones (those are mine! you can't have them; I like them,
and I'm gonna keep them; you go buy your own! (hey, at this great
price, buy several. :).
Reality Check: Hey, if you're rich, I'd suggest buying
a set of bigger, heavier (& more expensive) stands for your
pro studio setup, and another set of lightweight stands for location
shoots; but my studio is in my house, and I don't have 20 foot
ceilings for the 15' stands anyway, so these stands work just
fine for me. 6.5 feet is plenty high for most uses, and we have
larger stands should you need more height. And they're sturdy
enough for studio work, and light enough for location work. Realize,
though, that these stands, while certainly a great deal and a
marvelous value, are the working photog's Chevys and Fords; not
Rolls Royces. Treat them with minimal respect, and they'll see
you through to old age; but if you're looking for the Ferraris
of light stands, go buy something else. This sturdy light stand
is rated to hold a load of 10 pounds (but, personally, I try
to keep the load under 9 lbs when it's fully extended) either
way, it's likely to be able to hold darn near any lighting unit
you're using. Of course, there are bigger and heavier stands,
too.
All the sections of these stands
are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which
are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only
"cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the
quality! Bid now, while they're still in stock.
Back to top of page
|
|
|
You're getting One brand new 6
1/2 Foot Light stand with this package <- Free upgrade to 7'
NEW! No waiting for an Auction
to end! Bid Now = Buy NOW!
|
|
Dear Visitor: Welcome to my eBay
store fixed-price venue! This format allows you to make your
purchases INSTANTLY! No bidding (and no chance of being outbid, no
chance of the price increasing,
and no
chance of losing out on the auction). This is just like making
any regular purchase; simply placing your bid, places your order!
Order one item or package, and one gets shipped right away; order
2, and both get shipped right away (once you pay for them, of
course:).
So just decide how many of these
fabulous Starter Strobe Kits you want, and as soon as you place your order
(and pay), your new goodies will be on their way to you - right
away!
|
Free Photo
Tips & Techniques
 Technique: The most important "secret" of good photography is the thought the photographer
puts into a picture before s/he even considers what type of film
to use! The point here is that we have to train ourselves to
think before we shoot! What color is our subject? How
can we make that color (or shade) stand out? Look at the example
here,
and see how the simple choice of using a background that matches
our subject's (blue) eye color can improve our pictures. In the
lovely picture to your left, notice how the blue-violet shadows
to the right of the model's head accentuate her blue eyes. Notice,
too how half the face is in a light shadow, adding depth and
texture. We have to ask ourselves: What do we want to emphasize
in our picture? How will we direct our viewers' eye to our subject?
If it's an outdoors photograph, how will we separate our main
subject from any other distracting elements in our photograph?
At which angle should we shoot? Is it important to establish
place in this photograph (i.e., is it important for the viewer
to know where our subject is? Or do we want to hide the location)?
If we're shooting people, what is our victim's least appealing
feature (i.e., a large nose, a bald head, pot belly, lotsa wrinkles,
etc.:)? How can we hide or de-emphasize it? What's our subject's
most appealing feature (i.e., eyes, profile, smile, boobs - oops!
sorry, I couldn't resist:) ? How can we emphasize the attractive
aspects of our subjects? These are the questions photographers
have to ask, before we shoot. THINK before you shoot!
MAKE a photograph - don't "take" a snapshot! Learn
to "design" your picture before you pick up your camera!
Take a piece of paper and a pencil, and sketch out what you want
in the picture you're considering; this will be a great help
in the beginning, and after a few weeks or months of doing this,
you'll start to do it all in your head, and won't need the pencil
and paper any more. I promise you that a good photograph doesn't
require the genius of an Einstein - it just takes a little thought
and preparation (creativity and practice doesn't hurt either)!
You don't have to study photography for 20 years, just train
yourself to think before you shoot! Don't try to plan
out 100 subjects all at once; think about one or two, and then
use 10 rolls of film on just a few ideas. Shoot from different
angles; shoot from different heights; shoot with different lighting
angles; shoot with color film; shoot with black and white film;
think, then shoot! Pretty soon, you'll wake up one day and realize
that you've changed; you'll look at the world differently; you'll
"see" things most people never even notice; one day,
you'll realize that you've become something special; something
different, but different in a most amazing and wonderful way;
you will have become - a photographer!
© 2001-2003 |
| Quickie Photographic Technique #3: Portraits - Set the camera at subject's eye level;
focus on the eyes; light one side of the face brighter than the
other (half in light to medium shadow); to hide wrinkles use
umbrellas or softbox/softcase; to further hide wrinkles, use
a "soft focus" filter (it works like magic!); to de-emphasize
a large nose, raise camera level slightly and shoot full or 3/4
face (also use longer lens); to de-emphasize a receding hairline,
lower camera slightly or have subject raise head slightly. More
"quickie technique" information will be included in
my other auction descriptions. Thank you for viewing this auction,
and good luck! |
|
From whom
should you buy your photographic equipment? Hey, it's your hard-earned money, so you
should buy from anybody you darn well like! However, one of the
advantages of buying from another photographer is that, unlike
"salesmen," who just want to "sell" things
to you, a photographer will know what you need, and what
you don't need; a photographer will know why you'll
need something, and why you won't need something; a photographer
will have actually used the equipment being sold, and will be
able to offer advice based on real-life experience. Of course,
the facts that photographers (like us) are usually much
better-looking, a lot smarter, definitely kinder, and unquestionably
much more creative than other folks, doesn't hurt either, does
it? ;-)
Unlike the others who try to
cover up their own photographic ineptitude with not-so-vague
warnings warning you against buying from anyone else (anyone
but them, that is:), I won't stoop to such reprehensible
behavior; I guess I'm just not greedy enough to do such things.
In addition, I trust you to be smart enough to make up your very
own mind, without my self-serving advice, telling you
who you should and shouldn't patronize. Sure, I'm in business
to sell photographic equipment, but I'd rather lose a few sales
than insult my customers' intelligence with admonitions like:
"Buy from me! Don't buy from the other guy!" So go
ahead and check out what's available, compare prices, quality,
and customer service philosophies see links here;
see who you think will provide more help and support. Then, check
out the feedback profiles; go look to see what the
other "photographic experts" were selling a few months
ago (that'll be a revelation:). Next visit the web sites of your
potential suppliers (especially those who claim to be photographers
with "100 years experience," and see how much they
really know about photography). Then, in addition to the
usual, logical, informed, procedures for making your purchasing
decisions, check with the old standby that's almost always right,
your gut feelings. Do your homework; make up your own mind. Then,
without doubt, you'll surely come to the right conclusion. [However,
- just in the interest of saving you time and trouble ;-) the
conclusion you'll surely come to is that "PhotoSource3" on eBay (who is also the beloved founder
and talented creator of MyPhotoHome.com and Photographer's SupplyStation
see links here) is "Da Man" from
whom to buy your photographic goodies! =:-) ] Thank you for being
kind enough to view this auction (I hope you realize that my
humor is intended to be fun, and is meant with kindness), may
you have the best of luck, and don't forget, as always, no matter
who you choose to honor with your photographic purchases, take
(or better yet, "make") lots of great pictures! And
remember, you can't get good - unless you get started.
Back to top
|
| Want
one of these great new PS-300 Strobes along with additional equipment?
Just Check out my other eBay auctions! |
| Important:
I have many auctions that are not
listed at the top of the eBay auctions page, and lots of additional
equipment available for immediate purchase (no waiting
for an auction to end, and no chance of being outbid) in my eBay store! The only way to be sure
you haven't missed something that might be perfect for your
needs is to check ALL my eBay auctions and store items by clicking
HERE! <-
Clicking here will open up a new page in your browser with a
list of my auctions and eBay store items; this auction
page will remain open behind the new page, so you won't lose
your place. |
MORE FREE Photo Tips & Techniques: The Portrait Session
Technique: Which background should we use? That's a question with a million answers; the
answer is: It depends. It depends upon what effect we're after,
which mood we wish to create, how we choose to present our victim
(um, er, our "subject," that is:) to the world. But
there are a few basic guidelines we can follow. If our victim
has striking blue eyes, for example (blue, brown, or whatever
color, if their eyes are beautiful, use a backdrop with similar
colors), but for this discussion, if our subject has beautiful
brown eyes, consider a background with browns, tans, or golds
as a prominent color. If our victim has wonderful blond hair,
consider using a backdrop with gold, tans, or light browns in
it. If our subject is wearing a red blouse or dress, use a background
with reds or pinks among its colors. If our subject is wearing
a green suit, consider a backdrop with greens and/or blacks in
it. It's our job - as photographers - to make our subjects (whether
they're people in portrait pictures, or products, or buildings)
look as good as we possibly can. And one of our most powerful
and potent allies in this quest is the use of backgrounds! It's
up to us to make our pictures make our subjects look as
beautiful (or handsome, or striking, etc.) as we possibly can!
If you can't afford a professional background (check my other
auctions and eBay store for some great backdrops), then use a
sheet, or go to a local fabric store and buy some solid color
fabrics for use as backgrounds (avoid patterns and busy designs
like the plague! They detract from our images, and look like
doo-doo in the final print).
Back to top of page
The
Portrait Session: If,
for example, we're doing a portrait session, and we only have
a background with blues and browns among its prominent colors
(like my great "Stormy Weather" background in my eBay store) to work with (hey, not all
of us can afford to have dozens of different backgrounds when
we're just starting out, y'know), what do we do? That's easy:
tell our portrait client to bring two (or more) changes of clothes;
in one set of clothes, wear something blue, and in the other
set of clothes, bring something brown or gold! This way, we get
to make our clients look great using the backgrounds we already
have! Also, tell them to bring one dressy outfit, and one casual
outfit, so we can get images that show them urbane and sophisticated,
and another set of images with them casual and comfortable. Oh
yes, and this way we get to sell them twice the number
of prints, too! One set for business and impressing folks, and
one set showing that they're pretty darn attractive in jeans
& cowboy boots, too (or whatever their particular casual
attire may be).
Tip
1: Ask the client what they enjoy doing;
ask them about their hobbies, their passions, their interests.
If they play the guitar, have them bring one along; if they love
basketball, have them bring one to the session; if they just
adore their dog or cat, bring them, too (more pictures, more
poses, equal more SALES!).
Back to top of page
Tip
2: If they have a child,
then tell them to bring the child along (unless it's strictly
a business sitting, where children would be inappropriate), and
bring a couple of sets of clothing for each child. too. Make
some exposures (in addition to the standard single-subject portrait
poses, of course) with the victim and the child, and some exposures
of the child alone. Have the child in dressy clothes for some
shots, and in play clothes for another set of shots (film is
the cheapest part of your costs, so don't be afraid to use a
lot). Then, be SURE to ask the subject to bring the child's grandparents
(or uncles & aunts) along to view the prints - I guarantee
you, 90% of the time, the grandparents will - at the very least
- triple your sale! They just can't resist ordering pictures
of their little darlings! A couple of 11 x 14s for the walls
in the house (and for the office walls, too); a few 5 x 7s for
their relatives, and some wallet-size prints, to carry with them!
Remember, you're not only a photographer - you're also
in business to make a living (quite a nice living, too,
if you use your head)! See my other auctions for some more tips
see here .
Explanation: Just in case you were uncertain about
what I meant when I said "bring the child's grandparents
(or uncles & aunts) along to view the prints," above,
here's how it usually works: We do the portrait sessions, where
we make all the exposures (take all the pictures). Then, when
we get back the proof sheets (or prints) of the photo session,
we go over all the pictures and we pick out the best shots (depending
upon the reasons for the shoot, and the uses to be made of the
final pictures; for example, in student pictures for high school
or college yearbooks, we may only want 1 or 2 poses; for private
portrait sittings, we may want 5 to 15 poses). We NEVER let our
subjects see the shots that came out looking like doo-doo! We
show them only the best shots. So, depending upon the requirements
of our photo sessions, we choose the very best pictures from
the entire shoot (2 or 10 or 20 poses, etc.), and we have our
photo lab send us prints of the best shots (usually, I have 1
or two 8 x 10s, 4-6 5 x 7s, and perhaps 3-6 4 x 6s printed).
We then put the 8 x 10s and 5 x 7s in beautiful frames, and set
the others alongside them. We then call the customer(s) and make
an appointment for them to come in to view the pictures (or we
can go to the customers place, too). We present them with the
best prints and let them "ooh and aah" over their beautiful
pictures. Then, we ask them to choose which pictures they want,
and at what size they want each pose (11 x 14" or 8 x 10,
or 5 x 7, or wallets, etc.). Then we ask which frame they want
with their pictures (substantial extra income for us:). Try to
invite as many grandparents as possible to the viewing of kid's
pix; they spend the most! :-) Then, the most important part of
the whole process occurs: our appreciative clients whip out the
checkbook, and we run to the bank to collect our well-deserved
(and quickly-escalating) fees! Soon, Sports Illustrated, National
Geographic, and Playboy magazines send us to the world's most
beautiful and exotic places (first class, of course), along with
a couple of dozen exquisitely beautiful, world-class models to
photograph (in various degrees of undress) for them. Fame, wealth,
and public adulation, soon follow. Ahh, life is good! But when
you're rich and famous, don't forget who helped you get there
(little ol' moi), and have the limo driver swing by to pick me
up on the way to your next exotic locale. :-)
Back to top of page
Quickie
Technique #3: Portraits
- Set the camera at subject's eye level; focus on the eyes; light
one side of the face brighter than the other (half in light to
medium shadow); to hide wrinkles use umbrellas or softbox; to
de-emphasize a large nose, raise camera level slightly and shoot
full or 3/4 face (not profile); to de-emphasize a receding hairline,
lower camera slightly or have subject raise head slightly. More
"quickie technique" information will be included in
other auction descriptions. Thank you for viewing this auction,
and good luck! Tell me more about getting perfect exposure...see here
Back to top of page |
 |
Point of Information:
BTW (btw means "by
the way" for any "newbies" paying us a visit),
a "Reflection" umbrella is one that reflects the strobe's
light back onto the subject, and thereby softens and diffuses
the light. This technique is often used in portraits, delicate
items, and for photographing reflective surfaces, and performs
many beneficial services for all us hard-working, and under-appreciated
photographic artists. Keep it a secret from others, though, and
let them think we get our beautiful images through some sort
of secret and esoteric magic, passed down through the centuries,
from master to disciple. It helps increase our value ;-) - and
please don't send me any e-mail explaining that photography hasn't
been around for centuries, I know that. Duh. Actually, photography
(in one form or another) has been around for about 150 years.
Back to top
|
 |
Black/White
Reflection Umbrella: 32"
The Silver/Black umbrella is
made of the new P-Satin clothes-PU bonding with high denier Satin.
Their Black cover can achieve almost 100% light reflection rate
and provide soft almost shadowless light, which is suitable for
indirect and diffusive lighting. A wonderful method of softening
the light. You get TWO Black/Silver Umbrellas with this fantastic
kit!
Technique:
Photographers use these umbrellas
to diffuse and soften light; in portraits, for example, this
soft lighting very effectively hides many of the lines and wrinkles
on the faces of our victims (umm, our "subjects" :),
making them look younger and more vital. It's also great for
photographing highly reflective surfaces, such as jewelry, glass,
and chrome (it avoids the bright reflections that mess up our
pictures). But don't let our clients know our little secrets,
just accept their appreciation (along with your quickly-escalating
fees), and let them believe it was your phenomenal photographic
skill that made them (or their products) look so damn good!
Look, you're spending a lot of time and money acquiring the
equipment, and learning the skills of the photographic arts;
you're becoming a skilled professional; your work is valuable
as well as beautiful. Don't price yourself out of the market,
certainly, but don't sell yourself cheap, either.
Back to top
|
 |
32"
Transparent White "Shoot-Through" Umbrella: The "poor photographer's
softbox"
Ah, now here's a truly valuable
and versitile addition to every photographer's tool kit!
The transparant material of this great umbrella allows us to
either use it reflectively (as with the Black/White Umbrella,
above), in order to reduce the amount of reflected light, or
- and here's
the true value - to direct
our light through this umbrella, resulting in a truly
fabulous way to soften our light - without losing a few stops
of exposure (and without costing us an extra hundred bucks or
so for a softbox)! This is almost the exact same thing that the
softbox does, and this gives us yet another method to control
our lighting. When you start using this kit, you'll quickly see
the differences between using the reflection umbrellas, and the
shoot-through umbrella. The more tools we have, the more creative
we can be, and that's why I include the most valuable photographic
tools and accessories in these packages. I promise you, studio
lighting is a blast, and this package allows us to greatly improve
our photography! And with this kit you have the equipment you'll
need for both reflective-umbrella and softbox-style Transparent
Shoot-Through umbrella lighting!
Where? Photographer's SupplyStation of course!
"PhotoSource3" on eBay
Back to top
|
| You'll also be receiving a Sync Cord (also called
a "PC" Cord), and power cord with every PS-300 Strobe,
and don't forget that the PS-300 has integral (built-in) umbrella
holder, and light stand connector, too! Everything you'll need
is included, so when your new photographic equipment arrives,
all you'll have to do is plug 'em in, put them on your light
stands, point 'em at your victims. and rock & roll (fire
away)! Unlike some other lighting equipment which requires additional
power supplies and connector cables, this great A.C. kit comes
100% complete - no additional attachments or accessories
are needed to use this equipment! Back to top |
|
Options:
Questions? Requests? Just e-mail me if anything is unclear or
if you have any requests. I'm here to help. |
eBay Store Sale:
Every bid is a WINNER! Guaranteed! Bid now = Buy Now! |
Back to top
Additional
accessories are available, of course. You may bid on one or more
of these great packages.
Sprcial Sale Price: Only
189.95
What a great opportunity
to own this brand new pro strobe kit!
Only
so many kits are available in this auction! So bid now, and bid
to win! You could buy 4 or
5 of these great professional photographic packages for LESS
than you'd pay for just one single light from a competing
manufacturer or photo supplier!
[How
can you sell brand new equipment for such low prices?] |
|
Ladies and Gentlemen, "Elv*s"
has left the building....
(Sorry, eBay won't allow me to
use the great rock & roller's name anymore; but we know who
Elv*s is, don't we?:)
That's it for the goodies, folks; now for the details (below):
| Shipping & handling is only $22.85 (in lower 48 USA states)
for UPS ground delivery of first strobe; if you bid on and win
more than one, add $18.90 for 2nd and additional units. What does the "Additional Shipping"
charges listed on eBay mean? Other shipping methods available
(UPS 3 Day, 2 Day Air, Next Day Air, etc.), buyer chooses. If
you want a shipping quote, feel free to e-mail
me. Payments by credit cards, cashier's checks and money
orders processed immediately; personal & business checks
are welcome, but order will be held until check clears (5-12
business days). Taxable for California residents only. Thank
you for taking the time to view this auction, may you have best
of luck, and happy bidding!! |
| BTW, if you should ever outgrow this kit (unlikely,
because photographers can always use all the lights we
can get), but if you do, you can either trade it in on the new
ones, or sell it (maybe even right here on eBay) - and at the
amazingly low price you'll get these strobes for in this PhotoSource3
auction, you'll likely be able to sell it/them for as much as
or more than you paid for it! So unlike that great computer we're
all using right now (which will be almost worthless, for resale
purposes, in 6 months or a year), these lights will retain a
good portion of their value if or when you're ready to move on.
This auction is for individuals only! No dealer sales. |
| Guaranteed!
This brand new, top quality,
package equals or surpasses those with retail list prices far
higher! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly,
but with confidence. These items are 100% guaranteed to be brand
new, with the manufacturer's full one year warantee! You may return this light (in new and undamaged
condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund
(excluding shipping and a manufacturer-imposed 20% restocking
fee (why?),
if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me,
you'll love it! For way over a thousand more objective
and impartial opinions, check
my feedback and see what every other customer has had
to say about this strobe (as well as every other item I've ever
sold), and about my service, and my commitment to 100% customer
satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together,
y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive
"perfect" photograph, huh?). Thanks again for viewing
this auction, and best of luck to you; feel free to e-mail any
questions to me see links here, and may the
photographic Gods smile upon you! Umm, a nice present from the
Lottery Gods wouldn't hurt, either, huh? :-) For answers to common
questions, read my FAQ see links here. |
Use your Visa, MasterCard, American
Express, or Discover Card for a quick and easy shipment |
| As an eBay GOLD PowerSeller, and a PayPal "Verified"
premier business seller, my
customers are safer,
happier, and better off all around! :-) If you're a PayPal user, you no
longer have any dollar limit on your purchases when you
order from me (unlimited)! You're ALWAYS better off buying from
PhotoSource3! Plus, your purchase is doubly guaranteed
against fraud! Read more about your safeguards...here. |
| NOTE: You're welcome to pay with PayPal or
BidPay by credit card or electronic check. For those not technologically
inclined, regular mail "snail mail" (i.e. the post
office) will also work just fine, too. Unlike most other sellers,
I'll be glad to work with you to make our transaction a great
experience for you; after all, you're the customer, and
it's my privilege to not only provide you with the finest
equipment at the best possible price, but also to make your purchasing
experience the best you've ever had! So just let me know what
works best for you, and it will be my pleasure to accommodate
you! I hope this helps provide enough alternatives for you (if
not, feel free to send in your suggestions). One of the differences
between me and the big guys, is the fact that I'm always willing
to do whatever I possibly can to help out my customers in whatever
ways are needed. Here's my business philosophy. Will I ship to Canada
and other countries? Sure I will! But see here before placing an out-of-the-USA
bid. Basically, though, if you're willing to pay the increased
shipping charges, then I'll probably be happy to ship to you.
Back to top |
|
P.S. Check out my great Photographic Auctions! |
Check out my other eBay auctions! |
|
Feel free to contact me with any questions:
PhotoSource3@pss3.com |
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| Questions,
questions, questions.... |
| How can you sell brand new photographic equipment
for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you
offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money?
What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes
work with my camera? With my digital camera? What if my camera
is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California;
can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic
equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or
warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have
an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away
payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What
if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed
me after I bid on your auction(s) and offered me a "deal"
on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered
- just click below! |
| see links here
for Answers, answers, answers.... |
| Important:
I have many auctions that are not
listed at the top of the eBay auctions page, and lots of additional
equipment available for immediate purchase (no waiting
for an auction to end, and no chance of being outbid) in my eBay store! The only way to be sure
you haven't missed something that might be perfect for your
needs is to check ALL my eBay auctions and store items by clicking
HERE! <-
Clicking here will open up a new page in your browser with a
list of my auctions and eBay store items; this auction
page will remain open behind the new page, so you won't lose
your place. |
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Here's
a GREAT New Starter Strobe Package! All
!
|
|
Here's what you get:
1) One Britek PS-300 Professional Strobe
150WS!
(Show me)
---(With Built-in Umbrella Holder, Standard
Light stand connector, Flash Tube, Modeling light Bulb, etc.)
2) One Unique Umbrella-Capable Reflector
(Show Me)
3) One 6 1/2 foot Light Stand (Show Me) <- Free upgrade to 7'
4) One 32" Black/White Reflection Umbrella (Show Me)
5) One 32" Transparent "Shoot-Through" Umbrella
(Show
Me) <- NEW!
6) One 10' Power Cord
7) One 10' Sync (PC) Cord (Show Me)
8) All bulbs (flash tube,
modeling light bulb, etc.)
Just scroll down or click on a "Show Me" link to jump
down. (Kit #9105)
|
|
What's the price? What's the price? What's the
shipping? See above! |
FREE
Photographic Tips and Techniques in EVERY PhotoSource3 auction!
Where? See above: Here
and Here |
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© 2003 RMorgan/Adam Publishing
Co./Wryter All Wrights Wreserved Worldwide! So there! ;-)
On Jun-10-03 at 01:28:11 PDT, seller added the following information:
andale andalegallery
| Click button to see all of my eBay items. |  |
On Apr-08-04 at 17:04:09 PDT, seller added the following information:offerpts 1346936
|
Track up to 10 items on this computer in 
)
