OLD COPPER saya hand-forged blade KOSHIRAE SWORD mei - eBay (item 120249353028 end time May-18-08 18:29:59 PDT)

JAPANESE KATANA SWORD	TOTAL LENGTH	42"
JAPANESE KATANA SWORD	BLADE LENGTH	29"

FEATURES

Scabbard:cuprum saya wrapped the wooden house with fish and flower pattern,the hilt is traditional wrapped the rayskin,promote the beautiful of this sword.

Blade :handmade forged"22225" blade,it is the result during its tempered forged process.the smith's name was marked on the NAKAGO.it is shining brightly,without any bends.

Tsuba:the handguard has the traditional pattern,developed a status of the sword owner,far beyond its value.?

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Please note:We sell sword without blade.

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Gallery

Sword Maintance--How to Prevent Rust

Rust is the major enemy of the Japanese sword blade. The best course of action is to prevent rust rather than to have to remove it. If possible the sword should be kept at relatively constant temperature and humidity. A thin coat of a light, non-acidic lubricating oil is all that is needed. a special oil, CHOJI OIL, for this use. It protects well and has a nice aroma also. The blade should be re-oiled occasionally to prevent the old oil from becoming gummy. Wipe the old oil off with a clean, soft, WHITE cloth or tissue paper. Don't use colored materials as the oil may cause the color to "bleed" onto the sword and stain it. Gentle wiping action is all that is required not vigorous rubbing. Don't "soak" the blade with oil, just use a very light coating. Complete sword care kits are available and perfect for the sword owners.

Nice sword bags add to beauty for your lovely swords

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PLEASE contact me anytime via email :wwei75@gmail.com
NOTE:I won't send the sword to Russia and Italy

HANDMADE SWORD

Real handmade swords have a wood grain like pattern in the outer skin called the jihada. It comes from laminating many layers of steel to make the blade flexible. The blades are made by starting with a piece of hard steel to serve as the foundation of the sword. The skin or is made of hundreds of layers of softer steel that serve as a way to make the sword more flexible and resistant to breaking. Next the sword is covered in a ceramic like clay with just the cutting portion of the blade exposed and heated and tempered. This results in a very hard cutting edge on a flexible yet hard blade. Then the blade is adorned with artwork like the tsuba and handle and scabbard.

CONSERVATION

1>Do not attempt to sharpen the blade. The use of sharpening stones or (heaven forbid) a grinding wheel can cause the total destruction of the sword from a collectors standpoint. It takes special training skill and tools to properly polish and sharpen the sword.

2>Do not use sandpaper, steel wool or any abrasive materials on any part of the blade including the tang (nakago). These will scratch the blade and detract from its beauty.

3>Do not use ANY type of metal polish on the parts of the sword handle, guard or scabbard. The fittings on the sword are generally not supposed to be bright and shiny.

4>Do not handle the blade with bare hands. The oils and acids from your skin can cause the blade to rust (in some cases it may stain almost immediately). Use a clean cloth around the blade to handle it.

5> Whenever one draws a mounted sword out of its bag or scabbard, make sure the position of the hilt does not go lower than the scabbard.

POLICY

1> If you are unsatisfied with the item, please contact us for an agreeable resolvent.

2>ONLY accept PAYPAL ,please Pay within 48 hours (No other payment methods).

3>All items in store ,have special Packers for packing 2:00pm-6:00 pm every day.

4>All items will be shipped as "JPGT" via EXPRESS (3-10 days) within 24 hours as long as the payment is confirmed.

5>Accept returned package within 7 days for refund. please note that the Shipping charge is not refundable.

6>We will not hesitate a second to return all your money if the package is lost.

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