Unusual Victorian Multi Fabric Ladys Jacket 1870 - 90

This Antique Jacket has Lots of Detail - See Pictures

This is a short lady's jacket that probably dates to around 1870 to 1890.  It could also be earlier, but it has a slight Gibson Girl look with long puff sleeves and high collar.  This is a short fitted jacket that stops at the waist.  (Some flair out, but not this one.)  The primary fabric is a silk or silk blend with a woven design.  The fabric is a yellow, black, tan and white plaid and is lined in a white cotton.  The high neck collar and yoke insert is made of a nice strong yellow (almost a gold or tan color) sturdy silk fabric that is covered in a cotton lace with almost a crochet look.  The effect of the sculptured design over silk has a great look.  This same design also carries over to the back of the jacket.  The construction and designs used in these early jackets is so very interesting.  The jacket has an initial closure of 14 blind hooks and eyes.  Another part of the jacket crosses over and hooks onto the shoulder and then down the seam for the sleeve insert.  The hooks are the nice early metal and the eyes are like a crocheted fabric (non metal).  The detail in these early styles describing just one jacket could almost fill a book.  There are 2 gathered ribbons decorating the top of each puff sleeve.  There is another ruffle at the insert on one side and is at the cross over for the other sleeve, but lines up perfectly.  The front of the jacket has a black silk bow near the shoulder with soft folds that drape from the bow aross to the other side of the jacket.  The waist is decorated with a black satin 2 1/2" ribbon that has a soft fold reducing the width to 1 3/4".  The shoulder width is 11 1/2" (the puff probably adds another 2" or so on each side.  Including the puffs it measures about 19" across.  Shoulder to waist is aboug 16". and around the waist is about 28".  The sleeves are about 24 or 25" long and when puffed would probably be 19 or 20" long.  Measuring across the chest just under the arms is much too confusing with all the folds, blousing and cross overs, but my guess would be about 16" to 17" across.  The condition is good for thr age with no rips, stains or tears.  The only place I see wear is the silk binding on one of the overlaps sections, but this is completely hidden by the collar.  There is little or no underarm stain either on the inside or outside of the jacket.  I cannot see any.  This was probably part of a two piece outfit.  I think a black gored skirt could make this into a nice outfit.  I purchased this with a group of other jackets and items from the Maurine Popp estate auction.  I have a feeling that the skirt that went with this possibly went in another lot never to be matched again.

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