Welcome Back Kotter 1976 Topps Trading Card Singles

each purchase is for 1 card Complete your sets with missing cards with these 1976 Topps Welcome Back Kotter Card  Singles from XM-NM condition with no creases & light corner or edge wear if any 

I am giving huge discounts on shipping as follows. Shipping on singles is $1.64 for 1st card or card lot & only .10 each add. with max of $5 no matter how many singles are purchased. Shipping on Sets or a combo of sets & singles are between $2.50-$6 (based on weight) for 1st set with $1.50 each add. set with a max of $14 no matter how many are purchased. Please request invoice after all purchases are made & I will send at end of the evening to insure proper shipping is charged. Invoices are due within 24 hours by Paypal only please dont ask for any other method.  

The following cards # are in stock with any multiples in parentheses (i will update sold singles at the end of each night so if you are the 1st to purchase feel free to send me your list with payment if there are previous sales please contact me before purchase to make sure your wantlist is still in stock)

4,6,7,10,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,23,24(3),26(2),27,28,30,31(2),32,33,35,36,38,39,41,42,43,44(2),45,47(3),48,49,50(2),52(2)

I have handled well over a million cards in my 32 + years of collecting so I feel that I am qualified to offer grades but I dont get paid for it (just how does one get paid to tell you what grade YOUR card is anyways)  so I guess technically I am not a professional.I do tend to error on the safe side & to the buyers benifit (it is better to over deliver & under promise than the opposite) I dont take my feedback lightly 

I follow my own grading chart as below

NOTE: all grades are assigned by corners , edges , & surface NOT with centering as we all know with vintage trading cards centering tends to be random. 

Glossary Of Some Common Terms:

Miscut - (bad & unfortunate) but cannot be graded better than fair

Off center - (acceptable) I dont see many vintage cards that are perfectly centered. (when you do you can expect to pay up to 100 times the book value) As long as the card has at least a slight border it is acceptable. 

 Crease(s) - (bad) Damage usually caused by abuse 

 Wrinkle - (acceptable) & fairly common found moreso with Topps as they used a 2 layer system 

Warping - (bad) Damage usually caused by gum or moisture 

Curves - (acceptable) normal wearing from long term box storage when cards are on thier side, it is especially found in vending boxes , though this is more preferable than cards that were in plastic pages for 20 years as they tend to be greasy & sticky from plastic breaking down & cards can be damaged upon removal by sticking to surface

Gum Stains - (bad most off the time) can ruin the card it touches by leaking through both sides & causing warpage & bubbling. also this unfortunately leaves an outline on alot of sticker inserts but this is more acceptable than when on cards. If cards are not stored in a cool dry environment & opened now , you could really have a mess on your hands especially with Donruss & Fleer as they had softer gum & tend to melt & disintegrate which can damage all cards in the same pack. I personally have opened cards with mold Yuk. Im glad they stopped using gum.

Wax Stains - (acceptable & preferable if on front) If I had a choice I would take a card with wax on the front it preserves the card & is very easily removed. Use a ladies nylon with the bottom of your finger (do not use nail) lightly rub the surface till removed & it shines up glossier than a card without wax. Wax on rear typically does not ruin the card & is considered a very minor defect. I dont like Plastic,Blister,Mylar etc; wrappers & would go back to wax in a heartbeat sans gum of course.

Writing - (bad) one of my worst defects that i see is writing on a card (i guess an authentic auto would be good though).It is very common to see pre 1981 checklists checked off before the hobby started to pay attention to condition ,but still would only be fillers. 

Fading - (bad) usually happens to top card from sitting in the sun or under light week after week at a flea market , swapmeet , or show 

Rubber Band marks - (Bad / Acceptable) this was a very common way to store in a shoe box even during the 80's but usually ruins the top & bottom half dozen cards to Fair-good status but the cards in the middle can have just a slight indent but be NM otherwise but I dont grade any rubber band marks any higher than EX+

Tape/Tape marks / pin holes / glue (paper loss) - (very bad) common for vintage cards when it was still a kids hobby where they would hang on the wall or into a book. any of these flaws will cause the card to get a grade of no better than fair especially if there is paper loss. major paper loss (large  portion of photo or text on front or back is missing) will be discared  

NOTE: I grade sets on my 90% average rule which means in order to receive the highest grade it has to contain at least 90% of those cards in that NM grade or better otherwise it will receive the lower grade

example if at least 90 cards of a 100 card set are NM or better than set would get NM grade if less than 90 cards are NM or better than it would get XM or lower grade. I am very strict with this.      

Fair: May contain creases,scotch tape or tape stains when tape has been removed, severe rubber band marks,writing,fading,miscuts, layered (peeling) corners, warping,moisture marks,gum marks, stains ,small pin hole etc; I will not sell anything that is torn,ripped,or not whole (this includes miscuts that are so bad as to show the next card & cards that have loss of paper due to gluing) as I discard them before listing. This is the Lowest grade I will assign & typically will only be for low grade card lots & not as singles or sets unless they are rare or in demand.

Good: May contain rounded or notched corners & edges,fading,scotch tape or tape stains,very noticeable rubber band marks , warping ,moisture marks,light staining,gum marks, & some creases but no writing , layered (peeling) corners , or miscuts. Cards in this grade typically will only be offered in low grade lots & not as singles or sets unless rare or in demand. 

Very Good: May have small crease(s) (but no damaging creases which take away from the apperance),slight rounding or notching of corners or edges (inc. dings),light tape residue,rubber band marks,& slight warping but no writing , layered (peeling) corners ,or miscuts.This usually would be the lowest grade that I would include in any set & only when no other cards were available.This grade typically will be found in low-mid grade lots or in some sets but not usually as singles unless rare or in demand.This is also the highest grade I would assign anything with any type of crease. 

Excellent: No creases can be present (wrinkles are ok if not major & distracting & are very different from creases. They are fairly common on vintage Topps & to a lesser extent Fleer cards , I havent seen any Donruss cards that have wrinkles but they have thier own issues with the collation problems & thin paper stock. Wrinkles are on the front picture surface only & are like that right from the pack & not from abuse like a crease).All 4 corners or edges can show some slight wear or a ding but no rounding,notching,or layering (peeling).Cards may have a slight rubber band dimple but no warping (curves are very acceptable though) , No gum marks-wax marks are fine. I prefer to offer all my cards in EX or better whether singles , lots , or sets. 

Excellent + Has many qualities of Excellent-Mint but has some Excellent qualities as well (this is the grade I use to error on the safe side when a card looks great & much better than Excellent but there is something small that I dont want to use an EX-MT or NM grade. Can not have any creases (light wrinkles are fine),no miscutting (off center is fine),no warping (curves are fine),no writing of any kind,no heavy gum stains (wax is fine),no tape or tape residue,may have slight corner or edge wear or 1 ding or the slightest hint of a rubber band dimple, but overall looks great.

Excellent-Mint almost NM but may have the slightest of flaws usually I will grade a card down to EX+ to be on the safe side but i do occasionally use this grade. 

Near Mint -  I will not ever grade anything higher than NM. This grade will be used for most of my sets & singles that I will be offering. This grade will allow for the tiniest of flaws but for the most part many people will consider them MINT. 

READ FINE PRINT BELOW:

I want to earn your repeat business so I promise to offer fair prices on items , charge minimum shipping charges ( I cover the materials you pay the actual shipping or less), and I will deliver fast & safe shipping. I want to give buyers a 5 star experience & hope you can rate me the same. I have been stocking up on about 250,000 non sports cards over the last couple of months which I am organizing & soon will be listing close to 1200 sets with at least 150-200 different titles & I will also be one of the few if any sellers that will cater to the set builder by offering single cards to complete your sets so please bookmark me. You should have an idea of what you are buying & it bothers me to see sellers list an item with a single photo which is just lazy because when using the trading card catergory ebay allows up to 12 photos for free so I will add as many photos as i can. When multiples sets are offered the photos will be of a single set that I have but the rest of the sets will meet or exceed the quality of the one in photos.