Tip Corner:

Want to Change your drive seal without disassembling the pump?

If you choose to replace your drive seal without disassembling pump completely here are a few tips.

1. Using a medium screw driver and bench grinder create a tool similar to the one picture below. The orange lines show the screw driver shape before grinding.
2. Using a hammer gently tap the screw driver between the rubber part of the seal and the pump drive shaft. Care must be used to avoid damaging the main pump Aluminum Housing. (Picture A)
3. Gently push the screw driver down thus prying up on the seal. If the seal appears to be to be bending instead of pulling out you may need to tap it slightly again or move the screw driver to a new position and try from there. You may have to pry from several sides before the seal will be removed (Picture B)
4. With some luck you will have the results found in (Picture C)
5. Clean seal area. Lubricate both inside and outside areas of the new seal. Using the hammer gently tap the seal in with a perfect sized deep well socket. Seal needs to be kept level as it enters the pump.(Picture D). New seal (rubber coated) may be taller that the older seal so the seal will be flush with the pump housing once installed.

1. With the pump removed from the engine, Remove the solenoid, mounting bracket and all but two screws, (pic 1)

2. Pump should remain vertical as pictured, for this procedure.

3. Slowly loosen the other two screws evenly till you have access to the o-ring (pic 2) If the head does not rise as you loosen the screws you may have to pry it up with a thin screw driver. The plan is to not remove the last two screw completely. keeping these screws treaded will help keep everything in alignment.

4. Using a probe or other sharp object pull out and cut the old o-ring and then remove it. (pic 3)

5. Grease the new o-ring and very gently stretch it over the head allowing it to rest on the two screws. (pic 4)

6. Loosen one bolt at a time to let the o-ring drop in. Once the o-ring has dropped in be sure to retread that screw before doing the other screw (pic 5)

7. There that sound easy enough.

• Pump is locked up and/or the main drive shaft is broke.
• Engine will not start when warm, after sitting from 1-60 minutes. But does start when cool. This may indicates a bad head and rotor.
• Pump has excessive rust and corrosion.
• Housing is damage or unusable.

• Contact me with your pumps Models numbers.
• I will try to give you a closer estimate based on the problems you describe.
• Pump must not have been taken apart.
• Pump must be drained of all fuel as shipping service may return or destroy packages that leak fuel.
• You ship your pump to me pre-paid. (Packaged well, I can not be responsible for items damaged in shipment)
• We check the pump and contact you with a full estimate, return shipping cost and time you should expect your pump back. (Normal times are a week to 10 days).
• If you choose not to have your pump rebuilt after the estimate, all you pay is freight back to you.

• Rebuilt Pumps will be cleaned, inspected, rebuilt, tested and will look and run great.
• All fully rebuilt units are invoiced and include a 6 months warranty.
• We will provide tips for reinstalling as well as some of the parts you may need to do so.
• We have access to parts, specifications and test equipment to make sure your pump is right.

Please Note: Your fuel injection pump is a very technical devise. Not only does it control your engine it also protects it as well. Repairing your pump yourself is a great way to save money. However, extra care must be used as serious pump and or engine damage can occur. A person repairing their own injection  pump is assuming their own risk.